Home > News > Best 6.7 Cummins EGR Delete Kits: 5 Top Picks & Buyer's Guide
Best 6.7 Cummins EGR Delete Kits: 5 Top Picks & Buyer's Guide
If your 6.7L Cummins has stranded you with limp mode, regen failures, or a check engine light that won’t stay off, you’re not alone. The factory EGR system on these trucks is a well-documented failure point — and the reason thousands of Ram owners eventually delete it.
This guide covers the best EGR delete kits for every 6.7 Cummins model year, plus what the parts companies don’t always tell you: the tuner you pair it with matters more than the hardware, skipping the DPF is a ticking clock, and $60 in transmission protection can save you $6,000.
Before making any modifications, check your local emissions regulations. Federal law prohibits tampering with emissions systems on vehicles driven on public roads.
What the EGR System Actually Does — and Why It Falls Apart
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation system routes a portion of hot, soot-laden exhaust back into your intake manifold. The idea is to lower combustion temperatures and reduce NOx emissions. In exchange, your engine breathes its own exhaust.
Over time, this creates three problems:
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Carbon packing in the intake manifold — Soot and oil vapor mix into a thick paste that coats the intake runners, restricting airflow and gradually choking power output.
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EGR cooler failure — The cooler is a heat exchanger that passes hot exhaust through coolant passages. When it cracks internally, coolant enters the cylinders. This is a known cause of hydro-lock and head gasket failure on the 6.7 Cummins.Read our deep dive on the failure chain: 6.7 Cummins EGR Cooler Clogging: Why It Happens and How to Prevent It.
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Soot loading in the VGT turbo — The variable geometry turbo relies on clean airflow to actuate its vanes. EGR soot gums up the mechanism, causing stuck vanes. A VGT stuck in the low-RPM position creates massive exhaust backpressure — and that backpressure is the #1 cause of head gasket failure on 4th-gen Cummins.
The shops that specialize in these trucks see it constantly: a blown head gasket almost always traces back to a turbo that was eating its own soot for 100,000 miles.
By deleting the EGR:
- Intake air temperature drops 100–200°F (no more pre-heated exhaust entering the intake)
- Carbon buildup stops accumulating
- VGT turbo vanes stay free and responsive
- The DPF stops receiving the extra soot load that EGR normally suppresses
That last point is critical, and it’s what brings us to the rule most blogs dance around.
⚠️ The Rule Nobody States Clearly: EGR + DPF Are a Pair
If you delete the EGR but leave the DPF in place, you’re creating a time bomb.
Here’s why: The EGR system sends exhaust through the combustion chamber twice — first as fuel, then again as recirculated gas. This “double-burn” reduces the total soot volume that reaches the DPF. When you remove the EGR, all of that raw soot now hits the DPF directly.
As Matter of Fact
Forum veteran (RamForum, 17-page EGR delete discussion) puts it bluntly:
“If you DON’T remove the DPF when you remove the EGR it will absolutely fail. The EGR reduces soot that goes to the DPF. When you take it off but leave the DPF, soot accumulates much faster and requires more frequent regens. Turning off regens while increasing the soot and heat in the DPF without the ability to regen would kill it.”
The real path: EGR delete + DPF/SCR delete + quality tune = a system that runs cooler, cleaner (internally), and reliably. TruckTok’s EGR delete kits are the highest-quality entry point for this upgrade, and we’ll cover what else you need to complete the job below.The EGR and DPF systems need to be used in combination to achieve the maximum effect, read our companion guide: 6.7 Cummins DPF Delete Kit — What You Need to Know.
Year-by-Year Compatibility: Not All 6.7s Are the Same
The 6.7L Cummins spans from 2007.5 to present, and the emissions equipment changed significantly across generations. Buying a kit for the wrong year range means parts that don’t fit and sensors that don’t match.
| Year Range | Emissions Equipment | EGR Delete Notes | Tuning Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2007.5–2009 | EGR + DPF (no DEF/SCR) | EGR cooler + valve delete. Simplest setup. | EFI Live or EZ Lynk. No bypass cable needed. |
| 2010–2012 | EGR + DPF + DEF/SCR (first years) | Full EGR cooler delete. CCV reroute recommended. | EFI Live or EZ Lynk. Early SCR tuning now well-supported. |
| 2013–2018 Pickup | EGR + DPF + DEF/SCR | Full cooler + valve + throttle valve delete. CCV reroute strongly recommended. | EFI Live (CSP4 switch, 4 positions) or EZ Lynk. 2018 needs SGM bypass cable. |
| 2011–2018 Cab & Chassis | EGR + DPF + DEF/SCR (different layout than pickup) | Requires Cab & Chassis-specific kit. Pickup kits do NOT fit. Pay attention to sensor port locations. | EFI Live or EZ Lynk. Confirm ECM support before ordering. |
| 2019–2023 | EGR + DPF + DEF/SCR (updated ECM) | Full EGR delete. SGM bypass cable required for all tuning on 2019+. | EZ Lynk recommended. EFI Live limited on 2019+ without additional unlock. |
| 2022+ | EGR + DPF + DEF/SCR (encrypted ECM in some builds) | ECM compatibility must be confirmed before ordering any kit. Some late 2022+ ECMs are not yet tunable. | Research your specific build date before buying. |
Pro tip: Before ordering, pop your hood and check your transmission dipstick location. Passenger side = 68RFE (most common, and the one that needs transmission protection — see below). Driver side = Aisin AS69RC (factory heavy-duty, more robust but can’t be tuned).
5 Kits Compared — Price, Quality & What’s in the Box
| Kit | Price | Includes Cooler Delete? | Material | Install Time | Tuner Required? | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2010-2018 EGR Throttle Valve & Cooler Delete | $89.99 | Yes | Aluminum alloy, silicone, billet plates | 3-4 hrs | Yes (to prevent CEL) | ⭐ 4.8/5 |
| 2009-2018 EGR Throttle Valve & Cooler Delete | $89.99 | Yes | Aluminum alloy, silicone, billet plates | 3-4 hrs | Yes (to prevent CEL) | ⭐ 4.8/5 |
| 2013-2018 2500/3500 Heavy-Duty EGR Cooler & Valve Delete | $89.99 | Yes | Aluminum alloy, silicone, billet plates | 3-4 hrs | Yes (to prevent CEL) | ⭐ 4.8/5 |
| 2007-2009 EGR Throttle Valve Delete | $79.99 | No (valve-only block) | Aluminum alloy, silicone | 2-3 hrs | Yes (to prevent CEL) | ⭐ 4.7/5 |
| 2013-2023 Cab & Chassis EGR Delete Kit | $62.99 | Yes | 1/2" laser-cut steel plates, billet plugs & caps | 2 hrs | Yes (to prevent CEL) | ⭐ 4.6/5 |
Now, let's dive into the best 6.7 Cummins EGR delete kits available for your Dodge Ram!
1. 2010-2018 6.7L Cummins Dodge Ram EGR Throttle Valve Cooler Delete Kit
This high-quality EGR delete kit is designed for 2010-2018 6.7L Cummins engines, offering a complete solution to eliminate the restrictive factory EGR system. Made from durable materials, this kit ensures improved airflow and reduced engine heat.
Key Features:
- Eliminates EGR-related carbon buildup
- Improves throttle response and fuel efficiency
- Includes all necessary hardware for a seamless installation
Perfect for:
Dodge Ram owners looking for a reliable, long-term solution to EGR system issues.
2. 2009-2018 6.7L Ram Cummins EGR Throttle Valve Cooler Delete Kit
Compatible with a wider range of model years (2009-2018), this 6.7 Cummins EGR delete kit is an excellent choice for those seeking enhanced performance without compromising reliability.
Key Features:
- Precision-machined components for a perfect fit
- Reduces exhaust gas recirculation, lowering engine temps
- Easy bolt-on installation with no welding required
Why Buy This?
If you want a durable, no-fuss EGR delete that works across multiple model years, this kit is a top pick.
3. 2013-2018 6.7L RAM Cummins 2500/3500 EGR Cooler Throttle Valve Delete Kit
Built for heavy-duty RAM 2500/3500 trucks, this EGR delete kit ensures maximum airflow and engine efficiency. Whether you're towing or daily driving, this upgrade will help your Cummins run cooler and stronger.
Key Features:
- Heavy-duty construction for long-lasting performance
- Reduces turbo lag and improves throttle response
- Includes detailed installation instructions
Best for:
Truck owners who demand peak performance from their Cummins engine.
4. 2007-2009 6.7L Dodge Ram Cummins EGR Throttle Valve Delete Kit
Early 6.7L Cummins models (2007-2009) can also benefit from an EGR delete. This ultimate EGR delete kit is specifically designed for these years, ensuring optimal fit and performance.
Key Features:
- Prevents soot accumulation in the intake manifold
- Enhances engine longevity by reducing heat stress
- Simple installation with all required gaskets and bolts
Ideal for:
Owners of older 6.7 Cummins trucks looking to restore lost power and efficiency.
5. 2013-2023 6.7L Dodge Ram Cummins Cab & Chassis EGR Delete Kit Diesel
This EGR delete kit is the only one engineered specifically for commercial Cab & Chassis trucks: the 3500/4500/5500 flatbed, dump, and utility bodies that keep construction sites, farms, and fleet operations running. At $62.99, it’s also the cheapest kit in the lineup.
Key Features:
- 1/2" laser-cut steel plates — heavier than the billet aluminum in the pickup kits, built for sustained commercial-grade heat cycling
- Billet block plug and standpipe cap — no silicone hoses, just solid metal plugs where the EGR cooler connected
- Fits 2013-2023 Ram 3500/4500/5500 Cab & Chassis (all Cummins 6.7L turbo diesel)
- Fastest install of any kit: ~2 hours with basic hand tools
The Tuner: Your Most Important Decision
An EGR delete kit is hardware. The tuner is what makes it work. Without a tune, the ECM will still try to command EGR valve actuation, throw P0401/P0402 codes, and eventually trigger limp mode.
You have three realistic options on the 6.7 Cummins:
| Tuner | Best For | Key Advantage | Key Limitation | Approx. Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EZ Lynk Auto Agent 3 | 2013+ daily drivers | Phone-based gauge monitoring, scan/clear codes, OTA tune updates | More expensive than EFI Live. 2019+ needs SGM bypass cable. | $800–$1,200 |
| EFI Live AutoCal V3 | 2007.5–2018, budget-conscious builds | Proven platform, CSP4 switch-on-the-fly (4 power levels), broad tuner support | No phone app. 2019+ support limited. Switch must be physically installed. | $600–$900 |
| RaceMe Ultra | Pre-2019 trucks, users who want simplicity | All-in-one — tuner + monitor in one device, no phone required | Smaller tuner network. Not recommended for 2019+. | $700–$1,000 |
Tuner quality matters more than hardware brand. A bad tune with poor fuel mapping will smoke, surge, and eventually destroy your transmission — regardless of whose EGR plates you bolted on. Use a tuner with a documented history on the 6.7 Cummins platform.
For a complete breakdown of tuner options, installation process, and what to expect, read our full guide: 6.7 Cummins Delete Kit with Tuner: Everything You Need to Know.
Recommended tuner sources (all have proven 6.7 Cummins support):
- The Diesel Dudes (EZ Lynk + EFI Live pre-loaded packages)
- PPEI / Kory Willis (EFI Live custom tuning)
- GDP Tuning (EZ Lynk 5-position switch tuning)
- Calibrated Power / Duramaxtuner (commercial-focused)
Important for 2019+ owners: All 2019+ Ram trucks with the updated ECM require an SGM bypass cable for tuning. This is not optional. The cable installs inline with the OBD-II port (pins 6 & 14) and connects to the green CAN bus block under the dash.
⛔ Transmission Protection: $60 That Saves $6,000
While we’re talking about what kills these trucks, the 68RFE transmission deserves its own warning.
The 68RFE
The 68RFE is the automatic in most 2010–2018 Ram 2500/3500 trucks. It has one fatal flaw: a thermal bypass valve on the passenger side of the transmission case. This thermostat is supposed to open at ~175°F to send fluid to the cooler. The problem is, they stick closed. When they fail, transmission fluid never reaches the cooler. Fluid temps climb past 220°F. Clutches burn. Rebuild costs run $4,000–$7,000.
The Fix
The fix costs $50–60 and takes 10 minutes: an ATS thermal bypass block. It replaces the factory thermostat with a straight-through fitting that keeps fluid circulating to the cooler at all times. After installation, transmission temps on a deleted and tuned truck typically drop from 175–190°F to 135–165°F.
If your truck has an Aisin AS69RC transmission (dipstick on driver’s side), you don’t have this specific failure mode — but you can’t tune the transmission either, which limits how much power you can safely add.
Installation Walkthrough: How It’s Actually Done
EGR delete on a 6.7 Cummins is one of the more accessible diesel modifications. Unlike the 6.7 Powerstroke (turbo buried against the firewall) or the 6.4 Powerstroke (cab-off nightmare), the Cummins inline-six layout puts the EGR system at the front of the engine — passenger side, eye level.
Estimated time: 2–4 hours for someone comfortable with hand tools.
For a detailed, photo-illustrated walkthrough covering every bolt, torque spec, and coolant bleed step, see our dedicated install guide: How to Install EGR Upgrade Kit on 6.7L Cummins — The Ultimate DIY Guide.
Tools You Need
| Tool | Why |
|---|---|
| 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm sockets (deep + shallow) | EGR cooler, valve, and bracket bolts |
| 3/8" ratchet + extensions (short + long) | Accessing bolts behind the intake and at the back of the cooler |
| 15mm curved wrench | The two nuts at the back of the EGR cooler are unreachable with a straight socket. A bent 15mm wrench + pry bar against the engine lifting hook gets them off. |
| 11mm socket or wrench | V-band clamps on EGR crossover tube and cooler-to-manifold connection |
| Hose clamp pliers | Coolant lines at the cooler |
| Tin snips | Cutting the plastic intake shield for coolant hose clearance (see step 9) |
| Flathead screwdriver + pry bar | Separating stubborn V-band clamps, prying hoses |
| Torque wrench (inch-lbs) | Block-off plate bolts. Aluminum threads strip at ~25 ft-lbs. Do not guess. |
| Drain pan | Coolant catch |
| Anaerobic sealant (e.g., Loctite 518) | Optional but recommended — prevents the #1 post-install leak point |
| Zip ties | Securing unplugged sensor connectors under the truck |
Phase 1: Prep & Safety
1. Disconnect both batteries. The ECM monitors EGR valve position. Kill power before touching anything.
2. Remove the intake tube and engine cover. Four 8mm bolts for the cover. The intake tube has clamps at the filter box and turbo inlet. 10 minutes.
Phase 2: Remove the EGR Crossover & Valve
3. Remove the EGR crossover tube. Two V-band clamps (11mm nut) plus an 8mm support bolt tucked behind the tube. Unplug the sensors before pulling it out.
4. Remove the EGR valve. Four 10mm bolts. Unplug the connector first. The valve may need a light tap with a rubber mallet. Do not reuse the factory gaskets — the kit includes new ones.
5. Clean the intake mating surface. Razor blade off old gasket residue. Stuff a clean rag in the intake port to keep debris out while you work.
6. Install the intake-side blocker plate. Seat the O-rings in their grooves. Torque bolts to 8–10 ft-lbs. If bolts bottom out before the plate is tight, add 3/8" flat washers as spacers — this is a known casting variation.
Phase 3: Remove the EGR Cooler
7. Remove the heat shields. Two 10mm-nut heat shields — one on the cooler, one on the firewall side. Set aside.
8. Disconnect the coolant lines. Two hoses — front and rear of the cooler. Pro tip from shops that do this daily: you don’t need to drain the whole cooling system. With the engine cold, loosen the front hose slowly. Only about a quart spills. Keep the drain pan underneath anyway.
9. Access the rear coolant hose. The plastic shield and belt cover block the hose. Factory manual says to remove the entire belt cover. Field shortcut: tin snips — three quick cuts for a clearance notch. Saves 45 minutes, invisible after reassembly.
10. Unbolt the EGR cooler. Four 10mm bolts on the front bracket. Two 15mm nuts at the back — the hardest part of the job. These sit behind the cooler against the firewall. The proven method:
- Spray penetrating fluid on the rear nuts before starting
- Bent 15mm wrench + pry bar against the engine lifting hook
- Takes practice one-handed; two hands is faster
11. Pull the EGR cooler. Lift the back off the studs, push backward, and pull free. Keep the back end lower than the front — the cooler is full of coolant and will dump if tilted forward.
12. Remove the cooler mounting bracket. Two 13mm bolts to the exhaust manifold, accessed from underneath.
Phase 4: Install the Delete Kit
13. Install the exhaust-side blocker plate. Covers the exhaust manifold port. Reuse the factory gasket and nuts. Add washers if nuts bottom out. Torque to 18–22 ft-lbs.
14. Install the coolant bypass hose. Silicone hose connects the engine block riser to the heater core return. Route away from the turbo. Slide clamps on first, then trim to length — most installs need ~1" cut off.
15. Apply anaerobic sealant at the coolant fitting. Loctite 518 or equivalent on the engine block side fitting. This is the #1 post-install leak point. Without it, a hissing or whining noise under load signals a microscopic coolant weep. Sealant eliminates it entirely.
16. Install the 68RFE dipstick bracket (if applicable). Factory dipstick tube was bolted to the EGR cooler bracket. The kit includes a replacement. Aisin transmission = skip this step.
Phase 5: Reassembly & Startup
17. Unplug the throttle valve. Behind and below the intake elbow — use a mirror. Red locking tab first, then depress the release. Do not confuse with the MAP sensor (higher, must stay plugged). Zip-tie the connector out of the way.
18. Reassemble the intake. Reinstall the intake tube, tighten clamps, reconnect the sensor at the intake elbow.
19. Refill coolant and burp the system. Add 1–2 gallons of HOAT coolant. Radiator cap off, start engine, hold 1,500 RPM for 2 minutes to push air out of the cylinder head. Top off, cap, then recheck after the first heat cycle.
20. Leak check. Idle to operating temp. Run your bare hand along every coolant connection, blocker plate, and exhaust flange. Any hissing, whining, or coolant smell = retorque.
Common Mistakes (We’ve Seen Them All)
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Reusing factory gaskets. They’re crush gaskets, designed to seal once. Reusing them guarantees a leak.
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Overtightening block-off plate bolts. Aluminum intake castings strip at ~25 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench set to 8–10 ft-lbs for the valve plate, 18–22 ft-lbs for the exhaust manifold plate.
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Forgetting to unplug the throttle valve. If it stays plugged in, the ECM will fight the tune.
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Skipping the coolant burp procedure. Air trapped at the back of the head = hot spots, uneven cooling, and eventual head gasket stress.
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Not having the tuner ready before starting. A deleted truck driven on a stock tune will throw codes within 50 miles and eventually enter limp mode. Have the tuner in hand before you turn a wrench.
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Mixing up Pickup and Cab & Chassis parts. They are different kits. A pickup EGR delete will not fit a Cab & Chassis truck. The sensor port locations and flange patterns don’t match.
What to Expect After the Delete: Real Numbers
These figures come from dyno tests, owner reports across RamForum and CumminsForum, and installers who have done hundreds of these jobs.
Performance
| Metric | Stock (with EGR) | After EGR + DPF Delete + Quality Tune |
|---|---|---|
| Peak horsepower gain | — | 40–100 HP (depends on tune level) |
| Peak torque gain | — | 100–200 lb-ft |
| Intake air temp drop | — | 100–200°F |
| Exhaust gas temp under load | — | 150–200°F reduction |
| Fuel economy (city) | 14–16 MPG | 17–22 MPG (with responsible driving) |
| Fuel economy (highway) | 18–21 MPG | 23–28+ MPG (with conservative tune position) |
A note on MPG claims
The 20–30 MPG highway numbers reported by some owners are achievable — but they require a light foot, a well-written economy tune, and highway cruising at moderate speed. Aggressive driving on a high-HP tune will return worse fuel economy than stock. The consensus real-world number for mixed driving on a modest tune is 2–4 MPG improvement.
Reliability Improvements
- EGR cooler failure risk eliminated. No cooler = no internal coolant leak = no hydro-lock risk.
- VGT turbo life extended. No more soot recycling through the intake. Cleaner air = free-moving vanes = no stuck-turbo backpressure event.
- Oil stays cleaner longer. The EGR system deposits soot into the intake, where it mixes with oil vapor from the CCV and forms sludge. Delete = cleaner oil = extended change intervals (many owners report going from 5,000-mile changes to 7,500–10,000 with oil analysis to confirm).
- Under-hood heat reduced. The EGR cooler is a 500°F+ heat source bolted to the passenger side of the engine. Removing it drops the local engine bay temperature significantly and reduces heat soak into the intake manifold.
The One Risk Worth Knowing About
The 68RFE transmission becomes the weak link. A tune that adds 80–180 HP over stock puts stress on clutches, torque converter, and the valve body. The factory 68RFE was designed to handle stock power levels — not 450+ HP at the rear wheels.
Protect it before you push it:
- ATS thermal bypass block ($50–60, 10-minute install)
- Deep transmission pan (+4.5 quarts fluid capacity, better cooling)
- Transmission tune (increases line pressure, firms up shifts)
- If you’re going above 500 HP: upgraded valve body and billet input shaft
One More Thing: Check Your Grid Heater Bolt
While you’re under the hood doing an EGR delete, check one thing that has nothing to do with emissions but everything to do with your engine’s survival.
The Grid Heater
The grid heater on the 6.7 Cummins intake has a known fatal failure: the bolt that holds the heater element can corrode, snap, and fall directly into cylinder #6. Once it’s bouncing around in there, it destroys the piston, cylinder wall, and cylinder head — typically totaling the engine. Dodge has been using the same grid heater design since 2007.
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Check it: Remove the intake horn and look at the grid heater bolt. If it wiggles at all — or if you have any grid heater-related codes — get the truck to a shop immediately.
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Fix it: A grid heater delete plate (like Pusher Intakes) replaces the heater element entirely. If you live in a cold climate, pair it with an aftermarket intake horn that uses an inline air heater. If you’re in a southern state, you can delete it outright.
Budget Reality Check: What a Full Delete Actually Costs
The EGR delete kit itself is the affordable part. Here’s what the entire job looks like at each level:
| Level | What You Get | Approximate Cost |
|---|---|---|
| EGR Delete Kit Only (what we sell) | Block-off plates, coolant reroute, gaskets, hardware | $62.99 – $89.99 |
| Basic Delete Setup | EGR kit + DPF delete pipe + EFI Live tuner + tune files | $1,500 – $2,000 |
| Complete Delete + Exhaust | EGR kit + 5" turbo-back exhaust + EZ Lynk tuner + tune files | $2,000 – $2,500 |
| Reliability-First Build | Everything above + ATS thermal bypass + deep trans pan + transmission tune + grid heater delete + gauges/monitor | $3,000 – $5,000+ |
The $1,500–$2,500 “standard delete” number you see quoted everywhere is realistic for the minimum viable setup: EGR block-off, DPF pipe, and a tuner with basic tune files. But as the RamForum builds show, most owners who actually drive their trucks end up spending more — on transmission protection, exhaust upgrades, and monitoring.
TruckTok’s role in this: we provide the best-engineered EGR delete kits on the market at prices that leave budget for the rest of the system.
Conclusion
Upgrading to an EGR delete kit is one of the best ways to unlock your 6.7 Cummins’ full potential. Whether you drive a 2007-2009 model or a newer 2018 Ram, there’s a high-performance kit for your needs.
For more expert tips and premium Cummins performance parts, visit www.trucktok.com today!
FAQs About 6.7 Cummins EGR Delete Kits
Q1: Will I get a check engine light after EGR delete?
Not with a proper tune. The tune disables the ECM’s EGR, DPF, and DEF monitoring. Without it, expect codes (P0401, P0402, P2457) and limp mode within 50 miles. Have your tuner ready before you install.
Q2: DIY or shop install?
DIY. The 6.7 Cummins EGR is front-and-center — no firewall contortions, no subframe drops. The hardest part is the two rear cooler nuts (bent 15mm wrench + pry bar). If you can do a brake job, you can do this. Expect 3–4 hours.
Q3: Do I have to drain all the coolant first?
No. The EGR cooler is the highest point in the cooling system. With the engine cold, only about a quart spills when you disconnect the cooler lines. Keep a drain pan underneath and you’re fine. You’ll add 1–2 gallons of fresh HOAT coolant when refilling.
Q4: Can I delete just the EGR and leave the DPF?
Not recommended. Removing the EGR increases soot output to the DPF. When the delete tune disables regeneration, the DPF clogs — sometimes within weeks. The EGR and DPF are a paired system. Delete both or delete neither.
Q5: Does deleting EGR affect towing?
It improves it. Lower intake air temps and reduced backpressure mean cooler EGTs under load — the single most important metric for safe towing. Just keep your tune at a moderate power level. A 180 HP race tune while towing 15,000 lbs is how you melt pistons.
Q6: What’s the difference between 68RFE and Aisin for this job?
Two things. First, the 68RFE dipstick bracket bolts to the EGR cooler — you’ll need the kit’s replacement bracket. The Aisin dipstick is on the driver’s side and doesn’t touch the EGR. Second, the 68RFE can be tuned (adjust shift points, line pressure) while the Aisin cannot — so add power cautiously on an Aisin truck.
Q7: Should I do a CCV reroute at the same time?
Yes, if you can. Once the soot source is gone (EGR deleted), the CCV is the remaining contaminant. A reroute kit vents it externally or through a catch can, keeping the intake and intercooler clean. It’s a $30–100 add-on that takes 30 minutes while you’re already in there.
Q8: Will the truck still pass a smog or opacity test?
A properly tuned deleted truck with a quality tune should not smoke visibly at idle or cruise. But the physical absence of emissions hardware means it will fail any visual inspection. States with camera-based or OBD-only testing may not catch it immediately, but a physical inspection will. Know your state’s testing protocol.
Q9: How long will the engine last after a delete?
There’s no single answer, but the failure points you’re eliminating — EGR cooler cracks, VGT turbo sticking, intake carbon packing — are the things that typically end these engines early. The bottom end of a 6.7 Cummins is stout. Keep the tune at a reasonable power level, change the oil regularly, and 300K–500K miles is realistic.
Q10: Is this legal?
Federal Clean Air Act prohibits tampering with emission controls on road vehicles. Enforcement varies by state — California is aggressive, others have no diesel testing. These kits are sold for off-road, farm, and competition use only. Know your local laws.
Q: Are 2015+ emissions systems actually better?
Yes. Ram improved the EGR cooler, DPF regen logic, and DEF injection incrementally. Some 2015+ trucks go 150K+ miles trouble-free. But the core failure mode — a cooler that can crack and dump coolant into cylinders — is unchanged. If your truck has never thrown emissions codes, you may not need a delete. If it’s been in and out of limp mode, the fix is the same.