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The coolant reroute is the part people skip and regret：
6.7L Powerstroke EGR & DPF Delete Kit Install: Tools, Time & Difficulty
For off-road / competition use only. Not legal for on-road use in emissions-regulated areas. Check your local, state, and federal laws before modifying any emissions-related component. This guide walks through the tools, time, and step order for an EGR and DPF delete on a 6.7L Powerstroke — it is not a recommendation to delete a street truck.
Is a Delete Legal for On-Road Use?
No. Removing or disabling the DPF, EGR, or any emissions device on a truck driven on public roads violates federal law, and deletes are sold strictly for off-road, race, or competition use. If the truck is registered for street use, the compliant path is diagnosing and repairing the factory system — not removing it. This guide assumes you’ve already made that call for a legal off-road application.
What’s in a Typical 6.7L Delete Kit?
An EGR delete kit for the 6.7L Powerstroke is mostly plates and a coolant reroute, not a pile of exotic parts. A complete kit includes:
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EGR valve and cooler block-off plates — machined to seal the intake and exhaust ports where the EGR hardware was removed
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Coolant reroute hoses or fittings — the 6.7L runs its EGR cooler on a secondary coolant circuit, and the reroute keeps flow moving so you don’t trap air and starve the #4/#8 cylinders
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Gaskets and hardware — OEM-spec sealing gaskets and the fasteners to match
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Sensor plugs or caps — to seal the disconnected sensor connectors so water and corrosion can’t get in
A DPF delete adds the pipe side: a straight-through DPF/CAT delete pipe (4" or 5") with clamps, plus the hardware to hang it where the heavy factory filter came out.
The coolant reroute is the part people skip and regret：
The 6.7L’s EGR cooler runs on a secondary circuit, so blocking the ports without routing the coolant leaves a dead end that traps air and can starve the #4/#8 cylinders. A kit with a proper reroute hose or pass-through plate keeps that circuit moving.
What Tools Do You Need?
Nothing exotic, but a few pieces make the difference between a clean afternoon and a stuck bolt.
| Tool Type | What You Need | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Basic sockets | 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm | Most EGR and exhaust fasteners |
| Swivel + extensions | Swivel socket, 6" extension | Reaching the cooler bolts against the firewall |
| Torque wrench | 20–200 in-lb and ft-lb range | Block-off plates and clamps are low-torque |
| Penetrating oil | PB Blaster or similar, applied a day ahead | The exhaust bolts are heat-soaked and seize |
| Ratchet strap | One heavy strap | The DPF is heavy and fights you coming off its hangers |
| Drain pan + coolant | Catch pan, fresh coolant | You’ll drain the secondary circuit |
The torque wrench earns its keep here — block-off plates and V-band clamps are low-torque, and over-tightening a plate warps it and leaks boost. The ratchet strap is the other non-negotiable; the DPF is heavier than it looks and will fight you off its hangers.
How Hard Is Each Job?
The three deletes are not equal in effort, and the time depends on whether you have a lift.
| Job | Difficulty | Est. Time | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| CCV delete / reroute | ★★☆☆☆ | 1–2 hours | Easiest; mostly hose and bracket work |
| EGR delete | ★★★☆☆ | 3–5 hours | Cooler bolts against the firewall are the hard part |
| DPF delete | ★★★☆☆ | 2–4 hours | Needs a lift; the filter is heavy and the sensors are fiddly |
The EGR delete is the one that surprises people — it’s not the pipe that takes the time, it’s the two or three cooler bolts buried at the back of the engine.
Plan around access, not just the parts. The DPF delete is quick on a lift and a chore on the ground; the EGR delete is slow regardless because you’re reaching the cooler bolts blind against the firewall.
What’s the Step-by-Step Process?
The order matters more than the tools. Here’s the sequence in detail — always tune first, then work front-to-back.
Step 1 — Flash the Delete Tune First
- Write the off-road calibration into the ECM while the truck is still complete.
- Hook up a battery charger so the voltage doesn’t sag mid-flash and brick the module.
- Turn the key to run without starting, and let the write finish.
On 2020+ trucks the ECM may need an unlock or a bench flash before any tune will take — verify that path before you unbolt anything.
Step 2 — Disconnect the Batteries and Drain the Coolant
Pull both battery negatives, then drain the secondary coolant circuit into a clean pan so you’re not fighting a flood when the EGR cooler comes out. The 6.7L splits its cooling, and the EGR cooler lives on that secondary loop — drain it at the radiator petcock or the lower hose, and note how much comes out so you can refill the same amount.
Step 3 — Clear the intake side
Pull the airbox, the intake tube, the PCV hose, and the turbo heat shield. Every piece you remove now is one less thing fighting you when you’re reaching the cooler bolts blind against the firewall.
Step 4 — Remove the EGR Valve and Cooler
Unbolt the EGR valve (usually four bolts, two top and two bottom), then work the cooler free. The rear bolts against the firewall are the slow part — a swivel socket with a 6-inch extension is the tool that saves you here, and penetrating oil sprayed the day before is worth its weight.
Step 5 — Install the block-off plates and coolant reroute
Seal the intake and exhaust ports, then route the coolant so the secondary circuit stays complete. Route the reroute hose so it can’t kink or pinch, because a dead-ended circuit traps air and starves the #4/#8 cylinders.
Step 6 — Support and Remove the DPF
Unplug and label every sensor before you start — there are more of them than you expect, and label tape now saves a guessing game on reassembly. Run a ratchet strap over the frame to take the weight off the filter, then unbolt its hangers and the flanges. The DPF is heavier than it looks and will fight you coming off its mounts.
Step 7 — Hang the delete pipe
Test-fit the pipe before tightening anything, align the flanges, and work the clamps from front to back so the pipe settles square. Cap any unused sensor bungs so exhaust doesn’t leak where a sensor used to live, and leave the final torque pass until everything is seated.
Step 8 — Refill coolant, burp the system, and verify
Refill the same amount of coolant you drained, run the truck to full operating temperature with the heat on to purge trapped air, and watch the gauge. Then check every sealing surface for boost and coolant leaks before it goes anywhere. Let it fully warm up once, re-torque anything that moved, and take it for a short shakedown before trusting it.
What Are the Common Install Problems?
Most comebacks trace back to four things, all avoidable.
Boost leaks. A block-off plate that isn’t perfectly seated on a clean surface leaks boost and throws a code. Scrape the mating surface, replace the gasket, and torque evenly.
Coolant routing mistakes. The 6.7L’s EGR cooler sits on a secondary circuit — if the reroute kinks a hose or traps air, you’ll overheat and can starve the #4/#8 cylinders. Route the hose so it can’t kink, and burp thoroughly.
Sensor plug direction. On trucks with a CCV sensor or positioned connectors, a plug forced in backwards damages the terminal. Match the keyway and don’t force it.
Wrong bolt sizes. Fastener specs shift across the 2011–2016, 2017–2019, and 2020+ generations. Verify your kit’s hardware against your exact year before you start, and don’t over-torque the low-torque block-off fasteners.
The pattern is always the same: a rushed sealing surface, a kinked hose, or a forced connector. While you’re planning the 6.7L’s weak points, the fuel pump is the other one worth budgeting for — a CP4 disaster prevention bypass kit is the same cheap insurance against a much bigger bill.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a tune to install an EGR delete?
Yes. Without a delete tune, the ECM sees missing EGR flow and DPF data and throws codes, then derates the truck into limp mode. Flash the tune before removing any hardware.
Is a delete legal on the street?
No. Removing emissions equipment from a road-driven truck violates the federal Clean Air Act. These parts are for off-road, race, or competition use only.
Which delete is the hardest to install?
The EGR delete is usually the most time-consuming, because the cooler bolts sit against the firewall. The DPF delete needs a lift, and the CCV reroute is the easiest of the three.
Do I need a lift for a DPF delete?
It’s strongly recommended. The DPF is heavy, sits under the cab, and you need room underneath to unplug sensors and drop the hangers.
What tools do I absolutely need?
A set of 8–15mm sockets, a swivel socket with extensions, a torque wrench, penetrating oil, and a ratchet strap for the DPF. Nothing more exotic than that.
How long does a full EGR and DPF delete take?
Plan for a full day for a first-timer doing both, with the EGR cooler bolts and the DPF removal eating most of it. A shop with a lift does it faster.
Will a delete add horsepower?
The delete itself doesn’t — the power comes from the tune you flash alongside it. Removing backpressure frees up spool and response, but the calibration is where the numbers live.
What’s the biggest install mistake?
Deleting the hardware before flashing the tune. It’s the fastest way to a check-engine light and a truck stuck in limp mode.
Do I need to cap the unused sensor connectors?
Yes. Leaving the disconnected DPF and EGR sensor plugs open lets water and corrosion in. Cap them, or use a plug kit so the harness stays clean if you ever reverse the delete.
Does the kit fit every 6.7L Powerstroke?
No. Fasteners, coolant routing, and sensor layout change across the 2011–2016, 2017–2019, and 2020+ generations. Match the kit to your exact year and cab configuration.
Get the Right Delete Kit for Your 6.7L
If you’re going off-road and doing this job, the smart move is a matched kit rather than piecing plates and pipe from three vendors. The 6.7L Powerstroke EGR delete kit includes the block-off plates and the coolant reroute, and the 4" DPF & EGR cooler delete covers the exhaust side. Both are built for the 2011–2023 Super Duty. Browse the full lineup at TruckTok.com.
Want to see how other owners tackled the job? A couple of install threads worth reading:
- 2011-2023 6.7L Ford Powerstroke EGR valve & cooler delete kit
- Why the DPF and EGR delete stops the regen problem
Legal Disclaimer
For off-road / competition use only. Not legal for on-road use in emissions-regulated areas. Check your local, state, and federal laws before modifying any emissions-related component.