2020-2023 Ram EcoDiesel Filter Kit — 68436631AA & 68507598AA, $73.80

The $149 Wake-Up Call at the Mopar Parts Counter

It was a Tuesday afternoon. I had my 2021 Ram 1500 Laramie EcoDiesel parked outside the dealership. The service advisor pulled up my VIN and rattled off the quote: fuel filter change — $189.95 labor plus $68.15 for the 68436631AA filter. Oil change with the 68507598AA filter — $159.95.

“You want both done today?” he asked.

I did the math in my head: $349.90 plus tax. For two filters and about an hour of work — work that the guy in the YouTube video I’d watched earlier that morning had done in his driveway with a 28mm socket and a catch bottle. He’d said outright: “you can save around $300 to $400, depends on the dealer.” And it was his first time doing it.

That was the day I started researching my own filter kit.

The Ram 1500 EcoDiesel is a phenomenal engine — 260 horsepower, 480 lb-ft of torque, and real-world fuel economy pushing 30+ MPG on the highway. But the maintenance schedule is no joke. Every 15,000 miles (or sooner if you tow heavy), you’re supposed to replace the fuel filter. Every 10,000 miles, the oil and filter. If you follow the severe-duty schedule, you’re looking at roughly three service visits per year just for filters.

At dealer prices, that’s over $1,000 annually in filter swaps alone. With a $73.80 combo kit and a Saturday morning in the garage, you cut that to under $250 — and you know the job was done right.

The 3.0L EcoDiesel: Why Filters Matter More Than You Think

The Gen 3 EcoDiesel (engine code: EXF) introduced in the 2020 Ram 1500 DT platform is a clean-sheet redesign from the previous VM Motori A630 engine used in the 2014-2019 Ram 1500. It shares architecture with the 3.0L diesel in the Jeep Wrangler JL and Gladiator JT.

Key differences from the Gen 2 EcoDiesel:

Component	Gen 2 (2014-2019)	Gen 3 (2020-2023)
Fuel filter P/N	68235275AB	68436631AA
Oil filter P/N	68229402AA	68507598AA
Fuel system pressure	29,000 PSI	29,000 PSI
Injector type	Piezo (Continental)	Piezo (Continental)
Oil capacity	8.0 qt	8.5-10.5 qt (see note)
HPFP design	CP4.2-derived	Updated CP4.2-derived
Factory oil spec	5W-30	5W-40 (printed on oil cap)

The fuel filter part number change is critical. Gen 2 and Gen 3 filters are not interchangeable — the housing connection diameter, water-in-fuel sensor interface, and micron rating all differ. If you search “EcoDiesel fuel filter” on Amazon and grab the first result, there’s a real chance you’ll end up with a 68235275AB designed for the older engine.

⚡ Oil capacity — trust the dipstick, not the internet. This is the single most debated number in the EcoDiesel community. The owner’s manual says 8.5 quarts, but many owners (including two of the five videos we cross-verified for this guide) report needing a full 10.5 quarts after a complete drain to reach the full mark on the dipstick. The difference comes from how thoroughly the old oil drains — if you let it drain for a full hour (recommended below), more oil passages empty and you’ll need closer to 10 quarts on refill. The practical approach: fill with 8.5 quarts, start for 30 seconds, shut down, wait 15+ minutes for oil to settle, then check dipstick and top off to the full mark.

What the 68436631AA Fuel/Water Separator Does

The 68436631AA isn’t just a fuel filter — it’s a two-stage fuel/water separator. The first stage coalesces water droplets from diesel fuel; the second stage is a 5-micron cellulose media element that traps particulate before it reaches the high-pressure pump. The CP4.2-derived HPFP in the Gen 3 EcoDiesel operates at 29,000 PSI — at that pressure, a single grain of sand becomes a cutting jet.

When this filter clogs or fails:

• Fuel rail pressure drops below specification
• P0087 (fuel rail pressure too low) codes appear
• The HPFP begins cavitating — pulling vacuum instead of fuel
• Injector tips overheat due to lack of cooling fuel flow
• In worst cases: HPFP roller lifter failure, sending metal debris through all six injectors ($8,000+ repair)

What the 68507598AA Oil Filter Does

The 68507598AA is a cartridge-style oil filter housed in a plastic cap assembly on the top of the engine. It’s a full-flow filter with a 25-micron nominal rating. Unlike the spin-on PF2232 used on the 6.7L Cummins, this is a drop-in cartridge — you replace the paper element, the cap O-ring, and the drain plug crush washer with each oil change.

The EcoDiesel’s 8.5-quart sump is relatively small for a turbo-diesel, which means the oil works hard. The turbocharger’s center housing is oil-cooled; during a hot shutdown after towing, oil in the bearing cartridge can reach 400°F+. A quality filter that maintains flow at high oil temperatures is the difference between a 200,000-mile turbo and a $3,500 replacement at 80,000 miles.

Competitive Landscape: What You Actually Pay (August 2026 Data)

We ran the numbers on every major channel where you can buy these two filters. Here’s the real-world comparison:

Source	Product	Fuel Filter	Oil Filter	Combined	Notes
TruckTok	Kit R-14-01/24-02	68436631AA	68507598AA	$73.80	Both in one box, free shipping
Mopar Dealer	OEM Individual	$68.15	$21.95	$90.10	Plus tax, in-person pickup
eBay (OEM Mopar)	304516598794	68436631AA	68507598AA	$149.98	Mopar branded, free shipping
eBay (OEM Mopar)	314029349757	68436631AA	68507598AA	$181.35	Mopar branded, int’l seller
eBay Aftermarket	314824243703	Aftermarket	Aftermarket	~$45-55	Unknown brand, no reviews
Amazon	Non-OEM Aftermarket Filters	Non-OEM Aftermarket Filters	Non-OEM Aftermarket Filters	~$55-65	Mixed reviews on fitment
Walmart.com	Mopar Individual	$59.97	$19.97	$79.94	In-store only, variable stock

Data sources: eBay completed listings (Aug 2026), MoparPartsInc.com MSRP, Amazon search results. Prices exclude tax and shipping unless noted.

The short version: TruckTok at $73.80 is $16 cheaper than Mopar dealer pricing and less than half the eBay OEM kit price. The eBay kits charging $149-181 are selling genuine Mopar-branded parts — the identical part number you’d get at the dealer — but at a markup that makes no sense when you look at the actual Mopar MSRP.

The aftermarket kits at $45-55 are tempting. But the EcoDiesel CP4.2 fuel system doesn’t forgive cheap filters. One batch of cheap no-name fuel filters with inconsistent micron ratings, and you’re looking at a fuel system that costs more to replace than the truck is worth.

Where’s the Air Filter?

You may notice this kit doesn’t include a cabin air filter or engine air filter. The 2020-2023 Ram 1500 EcoDiesel uses the same Mopar 53034051AB engine air filter as the gas 5.7L HEMI models. If you’re doing a full-service day, grab that separately — it’s a 5-minute swap behind the glovebox. For the cabin air filter, the part number is 68406048AA. We sell both separately on the site, but we kept this kit focused on the two filters you actually need to prevent a four-figure repair bill.

Step-by-Step Installation: Fuel Filter Replacement

The 68436631AA fuel filter lives underneath the truck, mounted on the driver’s side frame rail just ahead of the fuel tank and above the propeller shaft. It’s an unusual location — bolted to the frame in a black plastic housing that’s accessed from below. You’ll need ramps or jack stands — this isn’t a topside job.

Tools Required

• 28mm socket or 4-tang fuel filter wrench (the cap has both a 28mm hex outer and four inner tangs — either tool works; a specialty 4-tang wrench gives better clearance in the tight space above the propeller shaft)
• Phillips head screwdriver (center drain plug)
• Small piece of hose (3/8" ID) to attach to the drain nipple for clean draining
• Pick tool or small flathead (O-ring removal)
• Catch bottle or drain pan (at least 1 gallon capacity)
• Nitrile gloves
• Torque wrench (inch-lb capable)
• Safety glasses

Step 1: Safety First

Park on level ground. Engage the parking brake. Ramps are ideal — the filter is on the driver’s side frame rail and the factory ride height gives just enough clearance. If using jack stands, lift the driver’s side front and place a stand under the frame rail. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

Step 2: Drain the Housing (Stage 1 — Center Plug)

The bottom of the filter housing cap has a center drain plug secured with a Phillips head screw. Unscrew it with a Phillips screwdriver and pry it out — it pops right out. Diesel will begin draining from the center hole. Let it flow until it stops (about 30 seconds). Leave the plug out — you’ll reinstall it after the new filter is in.

Note: Some 2020-2023 housings have a yellow twist drain valve instead of a Phillips plug. If yours has the yellow valve, slip a 3/8" hose over the adjacent drain nipple, run it to a bottle, and turn the valve 1/4 turn counterclockwise. Same result — housing drains.

Step 3: Disconnect the WIF Sensor

On the bottom of the filter housing, you’ll see an electrical connector with two wires — that’s the water-in-fuel sensor. There’s a red locking tab. Slide the red tab outward (toward the passenger side), then press the release and pull the connector straight down. Do not twist — the pins are delicate.

Step 4: “Burp” the Housing (Stage 2 Drain — Critical Step)

Here’s the technique that separates a clean job from a diesel shower. Using your 28mm socket or 4-tang wrench, begin unscrewing the cap — but do not remove it fully. Unscrew it just enough (about 1-2 turns) until the housing “burps” — you’ll hear a suction release and see fuel start seeping from the sides and the center drain hole. This releases the vacuum holding fuel in the upper half of the housing. Stop and let it drain for another 30-60 seconds. Once the second round of draining stops, the housing is truly empty. Now you can unscrew the cap fully without getting drenched.

Step 5: Replace the Filter Element

With the cap fully removed, the old filter drops out. If this is the truck’s first-ever filter change (factory filter at 20,000+ miles), expect it to be dark and gunked — the contrast between a used filter and a fresh white one is stark. The new 68436631AA filter goes in with a specific orientation: the four tabs on the filter align with four slots inside the cap. If you get it right, the filter slides in and snaps into place with a firm click. If the orientation is off, it won’t seat — rotate it 90° and try again.

Step 6: Replace the O-Ring

The cap has an orange O-ring (OEM Mopar) seated in a groove on the cap threads. Use a pick tool or small flathead to lift the old one without scratching the plastic. Lubricate the new O-ring with a thin film of clean diesel fuel — not engine oil, which can swell the rubber over time. A wet O-ring slides into the housing threads without binding; a dry one will bunch up and tear.

Step 7: Reassemble and Torque

Apply a small amount of diesel to the new filter element inside the cap — this pre-wets the media so it doesn’t start dry. Thread the cap back into the housing by hand until snug, then torque to 19 ft-lb (25 Nm). ID Parts’ shop recommendation is 19 ft-lb; the general range is 18-19 ft-lb. In practice, many DIYers go by feel: hand-tight, then about 1/4 turn with the ratchet. Do not muscle it — over-torquing cracks the plastic housing.

Reinstall the center drain plug (Phillips screw) and snug it down. Reconnect the WIF sensor — push the red locking tab back in.

Leak check tip: After reassembly, wipe every surface completely dry with a clean rag. Start the engine and let it idle for 2 minutes. Then run your finger along the cap-to-housing seam. If it comes back dry — you’re good. If it’s wet again, you have a slow leak (likely the O-ring didn’t seat properly). Residual diesel from the job will be wet immediately; a leak will re-wet a previously dry surface.

Step 8: Prime the Fuel System

The Gen 3 EcoDiesel has an in-tank electric lift pump. Press START twice without your foot on the brake to enter RUN mode. You’ll hear the lift pump cycle on — listen to the pitch of the pump. When the pump is pushing air, it sounds higher-pitched and smoother. When fuel fills the housing and the pump encounters resistance, the pitch drops and the sound becomes more labored. That pitch change is your signal that the system is primed — it takes about 30 seconds per cycle.

Most DIYers find two 30-second cycles sufficient. ID Parts’ shop procedure uses one cycle with the pitch-change method. To be safe:

1. Foot OFF brake → press START twice → listen for pitch change (about 30 seconds)
2. Press START once to shut off
3. Press START twice again → second 30-second cycle
4. Shut off, then start normally (foot on brake + START)
5. Let idle for 2 minutes, then check for leaks

Bonus tip: While you have the engine running to check for leaks, take a moment to check your DEF (Diesel Exhaust Fluid) gauge. The DEF fill neck is located right next to your fuel cap under the fuel door (blue cap). If it's below half, top it off with a 2.5-gallon box of DEF to complete your service day.

Step-by-Step Installation: Oil Filter Replacement

The 68507598AA oil filter is accessed from the top of the engine bay. This is much easier than the fuel filter — no crawling underneath required.

Tools Required

• 24mm socket (oil filter cap — note: this is different from the 28mm fuel filter cap)
• Ratchet and extension
• Drain pan (8+ quart capacity)
• 13mm socket or wrench (drain plug)
• New drain plug crush washer (included with kit)
• Torque wrench
• Aluminum foil (optional — see Step 2 for the frame rail trick)
• Two 10mm sockets or wrenches (if removing engine cover for better access)

Step 1: Warm the Engine — Then Cool It

If the truck is cold, run the engine for 5 minutes before draining — warm oil flows faster and carries more contaminants out. If you just drove home from work and the oil temperature is at operating temp (~220°F), let it cool for 15 minutes first. Hot oil will burn you, and hot engine bay components make the filter area uncomfortable to work in. Open the oil fill cap on top of the engine before you go underneath — this breaks the vacuum and helps the oil drain faster.

Step 2: Drain the Oil

The frame rail problem: The driver’s side frame rail runs directly beneath the oil drain plug area, partially blocking a clean path to your drain pan. Oil will hit the frame and splatter unless you redirect it. The simplest fix: take a sheet of aluminum foil, fold it into a trough, and position it under the drain plug so it channels the oil stream over the frame and into your pan. It’s a 10-second setup that saves 10 minutes of cleanup.

⚠️ Safety: Put your key fob somewhere other than your pocket. Leaning under the truck with the fob in your pocket can trigger the remote start by accident. It sounds obvious — until it happens.

The drain plug is a 13mm bolt (M14 x 1.5 thread). Loosen it, remove it, and get ready for a long drain. The EcoDiesel doesn’t drain like a normal engine. Most cars go: stream → drip → done in 5 minutes. The EcoDiesel goes: stream → glug-glug-glug → slow trickle → occasional drip → done. Set a timer for 1 hour. At 30 minutes it’ll still be dripping visibly. At the 1-hour mark it should be fully drained. One owner we verified timed his drain at exactly 60 minutes after which there were zero drips.

While the oil drains: Go topside and crack the oil filter cap loose — unscrew it about halfway so an air gap opens, but don’t lift it out yet. This lets oil trapped in the filter housing drain back into the engine, where it’ll join the rest in your drain pan instead of spilling onto your engine when you remove the filter later.

Quick drain upgrade: If you do your own oil changes regularly, consider installing a Fumoto or ValvoMax M14-1.5 quick-drain valve in place of the factory drain plug. It threads in once and lets you drain oil by attaching a hose — no socket, no aluminum foil, no mess. Keep the OEM drain plug in your glovebox as a backup. Torque the valve to hand-tight plus 1/8 turn — the threads are shallow and don’t need much.

Step 3: Remove the Oil Filter Cap

On top of the engine, locate the black plastic oil filter housing — it’s on the passenger side near the firewall. The cap has a 27mm hex molded into the top (different from the fuel filter cap, which is 28mm).

Better access: The plastic engine cover blocks easy access to the cap. It’s held on by two 10mm bolts — one near the oil filler neck, one on the opposite side. Pop those off and lift the cover out. Adds 60 seconds and gives you a clear path to the filter housing.

Use your 24mm socket and ratchet to loosen the cap. The torque spec is 25 Nm (18.4 ft-lb). When reinstalling, thread by hand until the cap bottoms out against the housing (no gap around the rim), then give it another 1/8 turn. The threads are plastic and the O-ring does all the sealing — there’s zero benefit to cranking it down.

Step 4: Replace the Filter Cartridge

Lift the cap and old filter element out together. Bring the assembly to your workbench. The filter pulls off the cap’s center stem with a firm tug.

Clean the housing: There will be a pool of residual old oil at the bottom of the filter housing. The quick way: ball up 2-3 shop towels, drop them in, and let them soak it up — you’ll get nearly all of it. This prevents old oil from mixing with your fresh fill.

Push the new 68507598AA filter onto the stem — it snaps into place with a click. Swap the old cap O-ring for the new one provided with the filter (lubricate it with fresh oil first).

Step 5: Replace the Cap O-Ring

The cap has a square-profile O-ring around its base. Remove the old one with a pick, clean the groove with a rag, and install the new O-ring. Lightly coat it with fresh engine oil.

Step 6: Reinstall and Torque

Reinstall the drain plug with a new crush washer. Torque to 20 ft-lb (27 Nm). If you installed a Fumoto/ValvoMax quick-drain valve, hand-tight plus 1/8 turn is sufficient — the M14x1.5 threads are shallow and don’t tolerate over-tightening.

Thread the oil filter cap back on by hand until the cap rim sits flush against the housing — there should be no visible gap. Then give it 1/8 turn with the ratchet. Torque spec is 25 Nm (18.4 ft-lb). The O-ring does the sealing; the threads just hold it in place.

Step 7: Fill with Oil

EcoDiesel oil capacity is the most debated topic in the community. Officially it’s 8.5 quarts, but many owners who drain for a full hour report needing closer to 10 quarts (one full 2.5-gallon Rotella T6 jug = 9.4L) to reach the dipstick full mark. Rather than relying on a number, use this method:

1. Pour in 8.5 quarts of full synthetic 5W-40 (API CK-4). Shell Rotella T6 (~$56 for the 2.5-gal jug), Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck, and Valvoline Premium Blue are all proven choices.
2. Wait 30 minutes before checking — the EcoDiesel’s complex oil passages mean oil takes much longer to settle in the pan than a gas engine.
3. Check the dipstick. Add oil in small increments until it reaches the full mark.
4. Start the engine and let it idle for 1 minute. Shut down.
5. Wait another 15 minutes for oil to settle again.
6. Recheck dipstick. The level will have dropped as the new filter filled. Top off to the full mark.

About the oil pressure gauge: The gauge in your instrument cluster looks reassuring, but know this: it’s a calculated value, not a real-time sensor reading. The EcoDiesel only has a binary oil pressure switch (on/off), not a transducer. The number on your screen is the ECU making an educated guess based on RPM and engine temperature. If you have a real oil pressure problem, the only warning you’ll get is the red oil can light — by which point damage is already happening.

Step 8: Reset the Oil Life Monitor

• Without pressing the brake, press the START button twice to enter RUN mode
• Use the steering wheel arrows to navigate to Vehicle Info → Oil Life
• Press and hold the OK button until it resets to 100%

Five Expensive Mistakes EcoDiesel Owners Make

Mistake 1: Using the Wrong Fuel Filter Part Number

The single most common mistake. The 2014-2019 EcoDiesel uses filter 68235275AB. The 2020-2023 uses 68436631AA. They look almost identical, but the Gen 3 filter has a larger diameter center tube and a different micron rating. A Gen 2 filter in a Gen 3 housing will bypass unfiltered fuel. If your Amazon order confirmation doesn’t say “68436631AA,” do not install it.

Mistake 2: Skipping the Water Drain Step

The WIF sensor is there for a reason. Diesel fuel accumulates moisture during storage and transport. Before every filter change, drain the housing and inspect the fuel in your drain pan. If you see water droplets beading at the bottom, you have a problem — contaminated fuel from a gas station. Consider switching where you fill up.

Mistake 3: Mixing Up Socket Sizes and Over-Tightening

A quick reference card: fuel filter cap = 28mm, oil filter cap = 27mm. Not the same. Mix them up and you’ll round the hex or — worse — use the wrong tool and crack the cap. Both caps are plastic with a torque spec of 18-19 ft-lb (25 Nm). A 1/2-inch ratchet and an enthusiastic arm can easily hit 40+ ft-lb. The result: a hairline crack that leaks slowly at first, then catastrophically on the highway. Use a torque wrench, or go by feel: hand-tight plus 1/8 turn. If you hear a “crack” sound during tightening, you’ve already gone too far.

Mistake 4: Under-Priming After Filter Change

If you start the engine without priming at all, the HPFP runs dry for a few seconds — enough to score the pump’s internal surfaces. The official procedure calls for 3-4 key-on cycles, but real-world testing by EcoDiesel owners (including two YouTube DIYers we verified) shows 2 cycles of 30 seconds each is sufficient — the truck fires immediately. The safe minimum is 2 cycles. One cycle is gambling. Zero cycles is inviting a $8,000 fuel system repair.

Mistake 5: Ignoring the Oil Spec

The EcoDiesel requires full synthetic 5W-40 meeting API CK-4 or the older CJ-4. Conventional 15W-40 diesel oil (common for heavy-duty Cummins/Powerstroke engines) is too thick for the EcoDiesel’s tighter bearing clearances and will cause low oil pressure at cold start. Using the wrong oil also voids the emissions warranty. Mopar recently updated the factory recommendation from 5W-30 to 5W-40 — the oil fill cap on replacement engines now has “5W-40” printed directly on it.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I change the fuel filter on my 2020-2023 Ram 1500 EcoDiesel?

Every 15,000 miles under normal conditions, or every 10,000 miles if you tow frequently or operate in dusty environments. The fuel filter minder on the dash will alert you, but don’t rely on it exclusively — if you notice reduced power or hesitation under acceleration, change it early.

Can I use aftermarket filters instead of Mopar-spec?

Yes — as long as they’re certified to meet Mopar specifications. The TruckTok kit uses filters manufactured to the same specifications as Mopar OEM. Avoid no-name filters from Amazon or eBay that don’t list specific micron ratings or certifications.

What happens if I don’t change the fuel filter on time?

Restricted fuel flow causes the CP4.2 high-pressure pump to cavitate. Symptoms progress from occasional hesitation under load → persistent P0087 codes → complete HPFP failure. A failed CP4.2 sends metal shavings through the entire fuel system: lines, rails, and all six injectors. The repair bill: $8,000 to $12,000.

Why is the eBay OEM kit $149 when the dealer charges $90 for the same parts?

eBay sellers are marking up Mopar-branded parts because many EcoDiesel owners don’t know the Mopar MSRP and assume “OEM Genuine Mopar” must cost $150+. The actual dealer list price for both filters combined is $90.10. The TruckTok kit at $73.80 is manufactured to the same spec.

Does the 68507598AA oil filter fit the Jeep Wrangler EcoDiesel?

Yes. The 2020-2023 Jeep Wrangler JL and Gladiator JT with the 3.0L EcoDiesel use the exact same 68507598AA oil filter and 68436631AA fuel filter. Same engine, same maintenance procedure.

How much oil does the 2020-2023 Ram 1500 EcoDiesel take?

Officially 8.5 quarts (8.0 liters) with filter change. In practice, many owners who drain for the full hour report needing 10-10.5 quarts to reach the dipstick full mark. The safe method: start with 8.5 quarts, then use the dipstick to guide top-offs (see Step 7 above). Do not blindly trust a number — the dipstick is the only authority.

Why does my oil pressure gauge read the same no matter what?

Because it’s not real. The EcoDiesel uses a binary oil pressure switch (on/off), not a transducer that measures actual pressure. The numerical gauge on your dash is a calculated estimate from the ECU based on RPM and engine temperature. If you have low oil pressure, you’ll only know if the red warning light comes on — by which point damage has already occurred. Don’t use the gauge to diagnose anything.

Is the 68436631AA fuel filter the same for the Ram 2500/3500 Cummins?

No. The 6.7L Cummins in the HD Rams uses a different fuel filter system (typically 68157291AA and 68436631AA as a dual filter set in some years). The 68436631AA single filter sold for EcoDiesel is the same part number used as the rear fuel/water separator on 2019-2021 Ram 2500/3500 6.7L trucks — but the EcoDiesel only uses one filter, not two. Don’t confuse the applications.

Do I need to replace the drain plug crush washer every oil change?

Yes. The crush washer is a single-use item. Reusing it will eventually cause a slow drip leak. The TruckTok kit includes a new crush washer with the oil filter.

Can I reset the oil life monitor without a scan tool?

Yes — use the steering wheel controls. Press START twice without your foot on the brake. Use the up/down arrows on the left side of the steering wheel to scroll to Vehicle Info (where it shows “Oil Change Required”), then press and hold the OK button until the percentage resets to 100%. No scan tool required on 2020-2023 models.

Should I refill the DEF tank while I’m under the truck for the fuel filter?

Yes — it’s one of the smartest moves you can make during this service. The DEF filler neck is accessible from the engine bay (passenger side, near the firewall). A 2.5-gallon DEF box fits the job perfectly and costs about $15 at Walmart or any auto parts store. The DEF gauge reads after a key cycle, so you’ll see the updated level once you start the truck after priming.

What’s the difference between 68436631AA and 68436631AB?

The AA and AB suffixes indicate minor revisions (typically packaging or supplier changes). 68436631AA was the original release; 68436631AB is a supersession that is functionally identical. Either part number works in the 2020-2023 EcoDiesel.

Does this kit include the air filter or cabin filter?

No. This is a fuel + oil filter kit. For the engine air filter, use Mopar 53034051AB. For the cabin air filter, use Mopar 68406048AA. Both are available separately on TruckTok.

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