2019-2024 Ram 6.7L Fuel Filter Kit — 68436631AA + 68157291AA, $77.40

The Day I Learned What $406 Buys at a Ram Dealership

I bought my first diesel truck — a 2020 Ram 3500 with the 6.7L Cummins — and took it to the dealership for its first oil change and fuel filter service. When the service advisor handed me the clipboard, I saw the number and nearly fell over. $700. For an oil change and two fuel filters.

A different owner called his local Ram dealer for a quote on just the fuel filters: $406 installed. The filters themselves, Mopar-branded at the parts counter, run $140-180. The rest is shop labor at $180-220 an hour.

I’m not mechanically gifted. I’m a woodworker. Before this truck, I’d never changed a fuel filter in my life. It took me 30 minutes. The parts cost $50.

You don’t need to be a diesel mechanic. You need a 28mm socket, a ratchet, and 30 minutes. That’s it.

What Makes the 2019+ Ram Fuel System Different — and More Vulnerable

The 2019 model year was a watershed moment for Ram’s 6.7L Cummins. Ram switched from the Bosch CP3 injection pump to the CP4.2 — the same pump design that earned the 2011-2016 Powerstroke its reputation for catastrophic fuel system failures.

Here’s the difference that matters:

	2013-2018 Ram (CP3)	2019-2024 Ram (CP4.2)
Pump design	3-piston, forged steel rollers	Single-piston, roller-lifter interface
Failure mode	Gradual pressure loss	Catastrophic — metal shrapnel through entire fuel system
Water tolerance	Moderate — CP3 can shrug off some moisture	Zero — water pits the roller surface immediately
Chassis filter location	Same frame rail	Same frame rail
Chassis filter type	Spin-on canister	Cartridge in permanent housing
Repair cost if pump fails	$4,000-8,000	$10,000-14,000 (all 6 injectors, lines, pump, tank cleaning)

The CP4.2 has a lower reported failure rate in the Ram than in the Powerstroke — Ram’s in-tank lift pump provides positive inlet pressure that reduces cavitation. But the underlying vulnerability is identical. Water droplets measured in drops — not ounces — pit the roller-lifter surface. Once pitting begins, the pump grinds itself into metal dust that circulates through all six injectors, the rail, and the return lines.

Your only protection: the two fuel filters. The chassis-mounted water separator (68436631AA) strips water and coarse debris to a 5-micron rating. The engine-bay secondary cartridge (68157291AA) does final 3-micron polishing before fuel reaches the pump. These micron ratings aren’t marketing copy — they’re printed in your owner’s manual as minimum filtration requirements for the CP4.2. Drop below either spec with a cheap filter, and the pump’s warranty argument gets simple: wrong media, no coverage. That’s it. Two filters. No backup system.

Competitive Landscape: Two Filters, Wildly Different Prices

Here’s what the 2019-2024 Ram dual fuel filter market looks like as of August 2026:

Source	Product	Included	Price	Notes
TruckTok	Dual fuel filter kit (68436631AA + 68157291AA)	✅ Both filters + O-rings	$77.40	OEM-spec, free shipping, single box
Mopar Dealer (parts only)	Individual filters	Fuel (x2)	$140-180	Mopar branded, no bundle discount
Dealer (installed)	Both fuel filters	Labor + parts	$406-700	$180-220/hr shop rate
eBay Mopar OEM (2-filter)	Fuel filters (68436631AA + 68157291AA)	✅Mopar branded	$40-55	Mopar OEM, plus shipping and 7-14 day delivery
eBay/Amazon Generic (2-filter)	Fuel filters	⚠ Aftermarket “OEM Compatible”	$25-40	Unknown brand, inconsistent media quality — CP4.2 Russian roulette
Doc’s Diesel (2-filter)	Fuel filters	Varied by stock	$55-75	Filter brand varies (Mopar, Fleetguard, Wix depending on inventory)

The $25 eBay filter trap: A $25 dual fuel filter set on eBay looks identical in the listing photo. The plastic housing matches. The O-rings are the same color. But the filter media inside is where the difference hides — and you can’t see it until the filter is cut open at 10,000 miles. OEM-spec filters (Mopar, Fleetguard) use multi-layer melt-blown microfiber media — Fleetguard calls theirs NanoNet, a synthetic green fiber layer bonded to the cellulose core that traps particles down to the 3-micron rating in the owner’s manual. Generic filters use single-layer cellulose that collapses under sustained CP4.2 inlet pressure. When it collapses, unfiltered fuel — with whatever water it picked up at the truck stop — goes straight to your $13,000 pump.

The dealership alternative: $406 installed is a valid choice if you have more money than time. But the parts themselves are $140-180 over the counter for the same Mopar filters you can buy online for $40-55. The rest is labor for a 30-minute job. At $77.40 with free shipping, TruckTok lands between eBay OEM pricing and Doc’s Diesel — OEM-spec quality without the dealer markup.

The Doc’s Diesel comparison: Doc’s is a legitimate diesel parts supplier with fair pricing ($55-75 for the fuel filter pair). Their filter brands vary by stock — you might get Mopar, Fleetguard, or Wix depending on what’s on the shelf. TruckTok’s $77.40 is competitive with Doc’s upper range, and you know exactly which filter you’re getting every time.

Step-by-Step: Changing Both Fuel Filters on a 2019-2024 Ram 6.7L

Tools needed:

• 28mm shallow socket (1-1/8" also works)
• 10-12" wobble extensions and U-joint (for engine bay filter cap)
• 3/8" ratchet (regular length — NOT a long-handle breaker bar)
• Torque wrench (22-30 Nm range)
• 8mm socket (drain valve, if overtightened)
• 3/8" ID clear fuel line hose (for drain nipple)
• Drain pan (2+ gallon)
• Nitrile gloves, safety glasses, shop rags

🔄 Do the oil change FIRST. One owner’s workflow that prevents a catastrophic mistake: drain oil → replace oil filter → refill oil → start engine and verify oil pressure → then do fuel filters. If you do fuel filters first (priming, cycling the key, starting), you’ll be distracted by the satisfaction of a running engine — and might forget you never refilled the oil. A different owner confirmed this the hard way: 12 quarts of fresh oil straight through the pan onto the floor because he forgot the drain plug. Do oil first. Then fuel.

🔁 Pro method: change filters one at a time — rear first, start the truck, then front. Most DIYers change both filters, then try to prime two empty housings at once. The result: extended cranking, dry injectors, and unnecessary wear on the intensifier pistons inside each injector. Richie Diesel, a shop owner who does these weekly, recommends this sequence: (1) change the rear filter → (2) prime and start the truck, let it idle 1-2 minutes → (3) change the front filter → (4) prime and start again. Each priming cycle only has to fill ONE housing. Two key cycles per filter is usually enough. The truck runs between changes, so the pump never has to push fuel through two dry housings simultaneously — and your injectors never fire dry.

Chassis-Mounted Primary Filter (68436631AA)

Key difference from 2013-2018: The 2019+ chassis filter is a cartridge in a permanent housing — NOT a spin-on canister. If you’re coming from a 2013-2018 Ram, forget everything you know about the spin-on rear filter. This is a different animal.

Even Mopar parts guys get this wrong. A 2019 Ram 3500 owner walked into a dealership and asked for a rear fuel filter. The parts guy handed him a 2013-2018 spin-on filter. “I know for a fact it’s different,” the owner told him. “Can you please look up my VIN?” After an argument, the parts guy finally checked — and sure enough, the cartridge-style 68436631AA was the right part. If a Mopar employee can’t tell the difference at the counter, don’t trust an eBay listing title that says “fits 2013-2024.”

Step 1: Drain the Housing

The chassis filter housing is on the passenger-side frame rail, ahead of the rear wheel. Look for the black plastic drain valve on the bottom of the housing.

Attach a 3/8" ID clear fuel line hose to the drain nipple. Clear hose lets you see when the fuel stops flowing. Household hack: rinse and cut the top off a 2-liter soda bottle — it fits under the rear filter housing with room to spare, holds the full drain volume, and you can seal the cap and walk it directly to your oil recycling center. A 2024 Ram owner measured ~18-20 ounces from the rear housing alone. Lay an absorbent pad or old blanket under the drain pan — fuel always splashes off the drive shaft and exhaust, and the pad catches what the pan misses. Open the valve 1/4 turn counterclockwise — diesel and water drain out. If the valve was overtightened by the last person, an 8mm socket fits the hex on the valve body.

Monthly habit: Drain 2-3 ounces every month regardless of mileage. The CP4.2 makes this mandatory. Set a phone reminder. At $13,000 for a pump failure vs. 30 seconds a month, the math is straightforward.

“Service DEF System — See Dealer” may not be a DEF problem. A clogged rear fuel filter starves the CP4.2, causing low fuel rail pressure. The ECU misinterprets this as a DEF system fault. An owner with 20,000 miles on his rear filter triggered this exact code — a fresh filter cleared it immediately. Before you pay $200 for a DEF diagnostic, try the $30 fix first.

Close the valve. Do not overtighten — the plastic cracks.

Step 2: Remove the Cap and Cartridge

Both fuel filter caps are 28mm. Disconnect the WIF sensor electrical connector first — the blue plug with a push tab.

Use the 28mm socket on a ratchet — no extensions needed for the rear housing. Break the cap loose counterclockwise. The filter cartridge is clicked into the cap — when you unscrew the cap, the cartridge comes out with it. Expect some fuel spill.

Less mess if the truck sat overnight. A 2020 Ram 3500 owner noticed his fuel system depressurized after 24+ hours — significantly less fuel spilled. If you can plan the job around an overnight cooldown, you’ll spend less time cleaning diesel off the driveline.

Aisin vs. 68RFE transmission: If your truck has the Aisin transmission (standard on 3500 HO models), the transmission dipstick tube runs behind the rear filter housing. A 2020 Ram 3500 Aisin owner confirms the dipstick adds a minor obstruction — the 28mm socket fits, but at a slight angle. 68RFE trucks have an open path.

Step 3: Replace the Cartridge and O-Ring

Pull the old cartridge off the cap’s central post. Remove the old O-ring from the cap using a pick or small screwdriver.

Lubricate the new O-ring with clean diesel fuel, a dab of clean engine oil, or a thin smear of Lucas Red ‘N’ Tacky grease. Diesel is the factory recommendation. Engine oil works just as well and most people already have a quart within arm’s reach. The grease lets the seal slip without bunching up and dissolves in diesel. An extra trick from a shop owner: smear a thin layer of grease on the housing’s O-ring seating surface as well — it lubricates the contact patch so the O-ring doesn’t grab and twist during cap installation, and it makes removal easier next time. All three methods work — the goal is to prevent a dry O-ring from rolling out of its groove during cap installation. Seat the O-ring fully.

What’s up inside the rear housing. Once the cartridge is out, you’ll see a fine secondary screen above the filter chamber — it catches anything that passed through the filter media. Clean it gently with a rag if visible debris has accumulated. You’ll also see electrical probes for the WIF sensor. On the 2019+ four-wire connector, the sensor likely reads both water presence and fuel pressure — which is why the “Service DEF” false alarm happens when the filter is clogged.

Push the new cartridge onto the cap’s central post. The cartridge has a top and bottom — the top has two small slots, the bottom has a larger opening. Line those slots straight front-to-rear with the truck frame. The cap’s blades match only when the cartridge is oriented correctly. It clicks into place when seated.

Alternative: cartridge-first method. Some owners find it easier to seat the cartridge into the housing FIRST (aligning slots with the housing receiver), then thread the bare cap on separately. Both methods work — the cartridge ends up in the same position.

Thread the cap back onto the housing by hand until snug. Torque is 30.5 Nm (molded on cap), which converts to 22.5 ft-lb. Most owners torque to 22-23 ft-lb. A career Chrysler technician disagrees and says factory service information simply says “snug it up” with no number; in his experience, counting on feel avoids cracking the plastic. The middle ground: use a torque wrench set to 22-23 ft-lb if you have one. If you don’t, a regular-length ratchet tightened until firm is close enough. Do NOT use a 24" breaker bar — the plastic threads will strip before your elbow registers resistance.

White marker trick. Before you remove the cap, draw a line across the cap and housing with a white paint marker. When you thread it back on, stop when the two halves of the line match up — you’ve hit exactly the same position the factory tightened to. Sounds too simple, but a shop mechanic who does these weekly swears by it. Plastic threads don’t have the same feel as steel, and the visual reference removes the guesswork.

Air-bleed trick: Leave the drain valve OPEN while threading the cap on. As the cap seats and compresses the seal, trapped air escapes through the open drain valve instead of pressurizing the housing. Once snug, close the drain valve. This eliminates the air pocket that causes extended cranking on first start.

Reconnect the WIF sensor — listen for the click.

Engine Bay Secondary Filter (68157291AA)

Step 4: Access and Drain

The engine bay filter housing is on the driver’s side firewall, below the brake fluid reservoir and a large wiring harness. It has the same 28mm cap and a small yellow drain valve.

Position a drain pan below — fuel will drip. The OEM drain hose under the front housing is only about 4 inches long and ends above the crossmembers, so fuel dribbles onto everything on its way down. 5/8" ID hose hack: slip a 24-30" piece of 5/8" hose OVER Ram’s factory drain hose — it fits perfectly over the outside diameter — and run the hose straight to your catch container. One owner measured ~30 ounces drained from the front filter using this setup.

PVC conduit — zero dollars, zero drips. A 2022 Ram 3500 owner discovered that a 2-foot piece of 1/2" PVC electrical conduit slips perfectly over the factory drain tube. He ran it straight into a diesel jug and, in his words, “absolutely not one drop of fuel” hit the floor. PVC conduit is rigid, cheap (or already in your garage), and doesn’t collapse like soft tubing.

Permanent drain fix: If you want a one-and-done solution, pull the factory 5" hose completely off the drain nipple, replace it with a 24" piece of 1/2" ID / 5/8" OD clear vinyl tubing, and zip-tie it along the sway bar and stabilizer shock so the drain path points straight down — nowhere near your front differential. A 2018 Ram owner did this in 5 minutes: one zip-tie at the sway bar, one at the shock mount, leave 3" of hose below the lowest tie so fuel clears the chassis. Total cost: $3 at any hardware store.

Open the yellow drain valve with your fingers — a #2 Phillips screwdriver helps reach it if the engine is hot — and let the housing drain.

⚠ Watch the sharp edge. The sheet metal around the front filter housing has a raw edge that will slice your forearm open as you reach down to unthread the cap. A 2022 Ram 3500 owner’s arm was “all cut up” before he noticed. Wear long sleeves, wrap the edge with a shop rag, or tape it with duct tape before your arm goes in.

Step 5: Remove the Cap and Cartridge

Use a 28mm or 1-1/8" socket with 12" of wobble extensions. Route the extension behind the wiring harness at the back of the engine bay — this gives a straighter angle than coming in from the front.

Three paths to the cap: (1) 12" of extensions + U-joint behind the harness — most common, straightest path. (2) Two shorter extensions stacked with a U-joint for adjustable working angle. (3) A swivel-head ratchet directly on the socket — no extensions, works if your ratchet is long enough and 29mm fits your cap (some caps measure 28mm, some 29mm depending on year).

Unthread the cap and lift it out. Sometimes the cartridge comes out with the cap — sometimes it stays behind in the housing. If it’s stuck, the butt end of your ratchet handle pressed into the center of the cartridge will pop it free with a quick pry. The O-ring on the engine bay filter sits on the housing (not the cap). Pull the old O-ring out of the groove on the housing rim.

Step 6: Install the New Cartridge

Lubricate the new O-ring with diesel fuel or Lucas Red ‘N’ Tacky. Seat it in the groove on the housing. Push the new cartridge onto the cap — it clicks in. Lower the assembly back into the housing, being careful not to drag the cartridge against anything dirty on the way down.

Replace the cap. Thread on by hand until snug. Same spec as the rear: 30.5 Nm (22 ft-lb). That number is molded on the cap. Use a regular-length ratchet or torque wrench — never a long-handle breaker bar.

Close the yellow drain valve.

Prime the Fuel System

Wait 10 minutes after any oil change before starting. Oil needs time to settle from the valve train to the pan. Check the dipstick, top off if needed, then start.

After replacing both fuel filters:

1. Press the START button twice — foot OFF the brake. Ignition goes to RUN without starting.
2. Listen for the lift pump. It will be nearly silent. Unlike aftermarket AirDog or FASS systems that whine loudly, the stock Ram fuel pump on 2019+ trucks is barely audible — even with the door closed. Don’t expect to hear it over traffic noise. The pump runs for 20-30 seconds.
3. Turn the ignition OFF.
4. Repeat.

Factory vs. real-world priming: The official Ram procedure says 2-3 key cycles (RUN 30 seconds, OFF 5 seconds). A Chrysler dealership tech confirms this works — but dealership trucks already have residual fuel in the lines from the quick swap. In your driveway, with empty housings and drained lines, 3 cycles often isn’t enough. Home-garage owners report needing 5-10 cycles. Cycle until the lift pump sound changes — from a high-pitched gurgle (pushing air) to a steady, muted hum (pushing fuel).

Alternative bleed method: leave the front drain open during priming. Instead of the cap-threading air-bleed trick, close the cap normally but leave the front yellow drain petcock open. Now cycle the key ON 4-5 times — the pump pushes fuel through the front housing, and air escapes through the open drain. When fuel drips from the hose under the truck, close the drain. This method purges air from both housings simultaneously without cracking the rear cap, and a 2021 Ram 3500 owner uses it every time with perfect starts on the first crank.

If you saved the diesel from Step 1, pour it into both housings before reinstalling the caps — a pre-fill cuts priming cycles in half. This pre-fill technique is used by experienced Ram techs to minimize dry cranking on CP4.2 pumps.

Start the engine. It may crank a few seconds longer than normal. Let it idle for 2 minutes. Check both filter locations for leaks.

Reset the fuel filter life monitor:

• With the engine running, use steering wheel buttons to navigate to Vehicle Info
• Navigate to Fuel Filter Life using arrow buttons
• Hold OK (center button on left steering wheel block) or right arrow (depending on your trim level) until the reset prompt appears
• Confirm with up/down arrows, then click OK/right arrow to finalize
• The display resets to 99% — it will never show 100% after reset, and that’s normal

📝 Keep a maintenance log. If your truck is still under warranty, a handwritten log with date, mileage/kilometers, and the specific filters used (brand + part number) is your proof that service was performed on schedule. A Canadian 2021 Ram 3500 owner tracks every oil change and fuel filter swap in a notebook — if the dealer tries to deny a CP4.2 warranty claim because of “lack of maintenance,” the log is your first line of defense. Takes 30 seconds, costs nothing.

Finish with a water hose rinse. Both filter locations will have diesel residue — even with the clear hose drain, some fuel always drips onto the chassis. A career Chrysler dealership tech’s final step: grab a garden hose and spray underneath both filter locations for 30 seconds each. Diesel smell wafts into the cab through the HVAC intake if you skip this. The customer — or you — gets in, hits the A/C, and wonders why the truck smells like a gas station. A quick rinse is free and takes 30 seconds.

Alternative: brake cleaner. A quick spray of brake cleaner on the filter housing and surrounding metal evaporates diesel residue in under a minute — no water, no waiting, no hose needed. One owner sprays both housings and the exhaust pipe — diesel drips onto the exhaust during the rear filter change, and if you don’t clean it off before the first drive, it smokes and stinks for miles. Brake cleaner takes care of both in one pass.

Five Expensive Mistakes 2019+ Ram Owners Make

Mistake 1: Assuming the CP4.2 Is as Forgiving as the CP3

The CP3 in a 2016 Ram could survive things that would kill a CP4.2 instantly. The difference is architecture. The CP3 has three pumping elements — if one degrades, the other two compensate. The CP4.2 has one. When it goes, it takes the entire fuel system with it. The only protection is your chassis water separator. Change it on schedule. Don’t cheap out on the filter media.

Mistake 2: Running a $25 eBay Filter on a $13,000 Fuel System

A Ram owner running 20,000 miles on an Amazon Co-rap filter showed it still looked clean — but he also runs an aftermarket auxiliary filtration system. On a stock truck, cheap filters collapse under sustained CP4.2 inlet pressure. The media folds. Unfiltered fuel bypasses straight to the pump. The $40 you saved on filters becomes the most expensive discount you ever took.

Mistake 3: Changing One Filter and Calling It Done

The chassis filter catches water and coarse debris. The engine bay filter does final polishing. If you change the rear but not the front, you have a fresh water separator feeding into a clogged secondary filter — and the fuel rail sees reduced pressure. The truck may not throw a code, but the CP4.2 is working harder to pull fuel through a restricted element. Change both, every time.

Mistake 4: Ignoring the Monthly Water Drain

The WIF (Water-In-Fuel) light is a last resort — by the time it illuminates, water has been accumulating for hundreds of miles. Drain 2-3 ounces from the chassis filter housing every month. Takes 30 seconds. Costs nothing. The CP4.2 measures water tolerance in drops, not ounces.

Mistake 5: Overtightening the Plastic Filter Caps

30.5 Nm (22 ft-lb) is molded on the cap. That’s lighter than your wrist thinks. A 24" breaker bar will crack the plastic threads before your elbow registers resistance. A cracked cap leaks fuel onto a hot exhaust — and a new housing assembly costs $40+ from the dealer. Use a regular-length ratchet. Stop when it’s firm.

Frequently Asked Questions

How is the 2019+ fuel system different from the 2013-2018?

Three critical changes: (1) the CP4.2 pump replaced the CP3, making water tolerance near-zero. (2) The chassis filter changed from a spin-on canister to a cartridge-in-housing design — the 68436631AA will not thread onto an older truck. (3) The engine bay filter (68157291AA) remains the same cartridge, shared across 2010-2024 Ram 6.7L models.

Can I use my 2013-2018 chassis filter on a 2019+?

No. The 2019+ chassis filter (68436631AA) has a different thread specification than the 2013-2018 filter (68197867AA). They will not interchange. If you try, the cap won’t thread on.

How often should I drain the water separator?

Monthly. At minimum, every time you refuel. The CP4.2 doesn’t give second chances. Set a phone reminder. One owner’s 30-second monthly habit has prevented 13,000-mile fuel system failures for three years running.

How often should I change both fuel filters?

Every 8,000-10,000 miles. The 2019+ manual relies on the fuel filter life monitor — but the same manual also says never exceed the indicator’s recommended interval. Multiple owners report their filters at 10,000 miles still look serviceable, but by 15,000 miles the rear filter shows visible degradation. The $77.40 kit is cheap insurance — changing early costs less than one hour of dealer diagnostic time.

What happens if I don’t change both fuel filters together?

A fresh chassis filter feeding into a clogged engine bay filter creates a pressure differential across the secondary element. The CP4.2 works harder to pull fuel through the restriction. Over time, this accelerates pump wear — and CP4.2 wear is cumulative and irreversible.

What does the WIF light actually mean?

The Water-In-Fuel sensor detects water accumulation in the bottom of the chassis filter housing. By the time the light illuminates, water has been accumulating — possibly for hundreds of miles. Drain immediately. Do not continue driving. A few drops through the CP4.2 can start the roller-lifter pitting process.

My truck says “Service DEF System — See Dealer.” Is it actually a DEF problem?

Maybe. But change both fuel filters first. A clogged rear filter starves the CP4.2, causing low fuel rail pressure — and the ECU misinterprets this as a DEF fault. One owner with 20,000 miles on his rear filter triggered this exact code. A fresh filter cleared it immediately. Before you pay $200 for a DEF diagnostic, try the $30 fix.

Can I prime the system without cycling the key?

No — the 2019+ Ram requires key cycling to activate the in-tank lift pump. There is no manual primer pump. Home garage owners consistently need 5-10 cycles with fully drained lines. Pre-filling the filter housings with saved diesel reduces this significantly.

Does the engine bay filter housing require disconnecting any fuel lines?

No. The housing stays mounted — only the cap and cartridge come out. This is a toolless cap-removal job (well, one 28mm socket). You do not touch fuel lines at either filter location.

What are the Fleetguard and Napa equivalents?

• Chassis fuel filter (68436631AA): Fleetguard FS53022 — Napa Gold 30579 (2019+ specific — not the same as 2013-2018)
• Engine bay fuel filter (68157291AA): Fleetguard FS53000 — Napa Gold 6255 NP

Why is the 2019+ chassis filter more expensive than the 2013-2018 version?

The 68436631AA is a completely different filter design — cartridge-in-housing vs. the older spin-on. Different manufacturing tooling, different media spec (upgraded for CP4.2 protection). They share zero interchangeable parts.

Can I run a FASS or AirDog system and skip these filters?

Aftermarket lift pump systems (FASS, AirDog) add filtration and positive fuel pressure — but they don’t replace the factory filters. You still need the chassis water separator and engine bay secondary filter. An AirDog helps. It doesn’t eliminate the OEM filtration requirement.

How long does this job take?

30 minutes for both filters. That’s the consensus from 10 different Ram owners on YouTube — including one who’d never touched a diesel before buying his truck. Camera setup time adds 30 minutes. The actual work is 30.

Can I do this without lifting the truck?

Yes. Both filters are accessible from the ground. The chassis filter requires sliding under on the passenger side behind the front wheel. The engine bay filter is done from above. A creeper helps but isn’t necessary.

What’s the difference between Mopar MO-291 and 68157291AA?

Same filter, different package. 68157291AA is the Mopar OEM part number. MO-291 is the Mopar retail packaging number. The filter inside the box is identical. Fleetguard FS53000 is the same filter under the Cummins supplier brand.

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The information provided in this article is for general informational and educational purposes only. TruckTok is not responsible for any damage, injury, or loss resulting from the use or misuse of this information. Always consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual and a qualified professional mechanic before performing any maintenance. Product specifications, pricing, and availability are subject to change without notice. All trademarks and part numbers referenced are the property of their respective owners and are used for identification and cross-reference purposes only. TruckTok is an independent retailer and is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or sponsored by FCA US LLC, Mopar, Cummins Inc., Fleetguard, or any other manufacturer referenced herein.