2017-2019 6.7L Powerstroke Filter Set — FD4625/FL2051S/FA1927/FP92

The $340 Fuel Filter Quote That Started Everything

Here’s a number that still makes my jaw tighten: $340. That’s what the Ford dealership wanted to change ONE fuel filter on my 2017 F-250 Platinum. The service writer explained it was “book time” — 1.5 hours labor at $165/hour, plus the Motorcraft FD4625 filter at $68. “And you’ll need an oil change soon too,” he added, “that’s another $169.95.”

So for a fuel filter and an oil change — two jobs that share zero labor overlap in the dealership’s book — they wanted $509.95. Before tax. Not touching the air filter. Not touching the cabin filter you’ve been breathing through for 30,000 miles.

I did the math differently. Four Motorcraft-spec filters from TruckTok: $131.40. A Saturday morning. A 36mm socket. And the satisfaction of knowing the CP4.2 pump that powers this truck’s 925 lb-ft of torque isn’t drinking unfiltered fuel because some flat-rate tech was rushing to beat book time.

The 2017-2019 6.7L Powerstroke: What Makes This Generation Different

The second-generation 6.7L Scorpion (2017-2019) is the sweet spot of Ford’s modern diesel lineup. You get the updated CP4.2 high-pressure pump without the hydraulic lifter issues that plagued the 2020+ models, the 6R140 TorqShift transmission before the 10-speed took over, and 440 horsepower / 925 lb-ft of torque right out of the box.

But the filtration needs changed from the first-generation 6.7L (2011-2016). Here’s what’s different:

Component	2011-2016 6.7L	2017-2019 6.7L
Fuel filter (frame)	FD4615	FD4625
Oil filter	FL2051S	FL2051S (same)
Air filter	FA1902 (some) / FA1927	FA1927
Cabin filter	FP79 / FP92	FP92
HPFP	CP4.2	Updated CP4.2
Oil capacity	13 qt	13 qt
Fuel filter location	Frame rail, driver side	Frame rail, driver side (different housing)

The FD4625 vs FD4615 change is the one that trips people up. They look almost identical — both are spin-on frame rail filters. But the FD4625 has a different thread pitch and a revised water-in-fuel sensor interface. A FD4615 on a 2017+ truck will either not thread on, or worse, will partially thread and leak. If the box doesn’t say FD4625, it doesn’t go on your 2017-2019.

What the FD4625 Fuel/Water Separator Does

The 2017-2019 6.7L Powerstroke uses a dual fuel filter system — one primary frame-mounted filter and one secondary engine-bay filter. This continuation of Ford's dual-filter strategy ensures that these trucks can safely run 15,000+ miles between fuel filter changes by protecting the high-pressure fuel pump at two separate points.

Primary filter (FD4625 / HC3Z-9N184-C): Mounted on the driver’s side frame rail, just ahead of the fuel tank. This is the first line of defense — a spin-on fuel/water separator that coalesces water droplets and traps large particulate before fuel reaches the engine bay. The Motorcraft kit (FD4625 or HC3Z-9N184-C) includes both the frame rail and engine bay filter in one box.

Secondary filter (under hood): Located in the engine bay on the driver’s side. This is a cartridge-style filter that provides final-stage filtration before fuel enters the CP4.2 high-pressure pump. It’s smaller than the frame filter and has three quick-connect fuel lines and one electrical connector to disconnect before removal.

The dual-filter design means that even if the primary filter gets overwhelmed by a bad tank of fuel, the secondary filter provides a second barrier. It also means you change two filters per fuel service, not one — a fact most first-time DIYers discover the hard way.

At 30,000 PSI, contamination doesn’t cause gradual wear — it causes instantaneous scoring of the CP4.2 pump’s internal rollers. Once the pump starts shedding metal, the debris travels through all eight injectors. The repair: $10,000-$14,000.

What the FL2051S Oil Filter Does

The FL2051S is a cartridge-style filter housed in a plastic cap on top of the engine. It filters 13 quarts of oil through a pleated media element with a bypass valve that opens if the filter clogs — ensuring the engine always gets oil, even if unfiltered. The factory change interval is 7,500 miles for severe duty, 10,000 for normal. Ignore it and the turbocharger’s oil-fed bearings are the first to suffer.

What the FA1927 Air Filter + FP92 Cabin Filter Do

The FA1927 is a high-capacity panel air filter that feeds the 6.7L’s variable-geometry turbocharger. A clogged air filter on a diesel doesn’t just reduce power — it enriches the air/fuel mixture (diesels run lean by design), increases EGT, and triggers DPF regeneration cycles more frequently. The FP92 cabin filter is the one most owners forget exists — it’s behind the glovebox and filters the air YOU breathe. After 20,000 miles, it’s black with soot, pollen, and diesel particulate.

Competitive Landscape: What Four Filters Actually Cost (August 2026)

We checked every major channel for the 2017-2019 6.7L Powerstroke filter market. Here’s the real-world breakdown:

Source	Product	Fuel	Oil	Air	Cabin	Combined	Notes
TruckTok	Kit F-19-01/16-02/19-03/19-04	FD4625 + engine bay	FL2051S	FA1927	FP92	$131.40	All filters incl. both fuel, free shipping
Motorcraft Dealer	Individual	$68.15	$21.95	$35.99	$24.99	$151.08	Plus tax, in-person pickup
eBay (OEM Motorcraft)	3-filter kit	FD4625	FL2051S	FA1927	✗	$192.74	No cabin filter, 46 sold
eBay (Aftermarket)	2 oil + 1 fuel	FD4625 (generic)	FL2051S (generic)	✗	✗	$27.49	No air, no cabin, unknown brand
eBay (OEM single)	FD4625 only	$42.00	✗	✗	✗	$42.00	Fuel filter only
Amazon (Motorcraft)	Individual	$49.97	$18.99	$29.99	$19.99	$118.94	4 separate orders, variable stock
Amazon (Aftermarket)	Various singles	$22-35	$8-15	$15-25	$10-18	$55-93	Mixed brands, inconsistent micron ratings

Data sources: eBay completed listings (Aug 2026), Motorcraft MSRP, Amazon search results. Prices exclude tax and shipping unless noted.

Key takeaway: That eBay “OEM Motorcraft” kit at $192.74 is selling three filters for $60 more than TruckTok’s four-filter kit. And it’s missing the cabin filter entirely. The $27.49 aftermarket eBay kit is two oil filters and one fuel filter — the air and cabin are missing, and the brand is whatever generic factory in China had the lowest bid that month.

The Amazon singles route gets you to $118.94, which is $12 cheaper than TruckTok — but you’re placing four separate orders, waiting on four packages, and hoping all four are actually the correct part numbers (Amazon’s fitment checker is notoriously bad for diesel trucks).

Why This Kit Includes the Cabin Filter

None of the main competitors — including the eBay OEM Motorcraft kit — bundle the FP92 with the other three. This is a deliberate gap. The FP92 is a $20 filter, but installing it requires a 7mm socket, a trim tool, and removing a section of dashboard (see the full 8-step procedure below). That’s why most owners skip it — not because it’s expensive, but because accessing it is just involved enough to procrastinate on. The TruckTok kit includes it because if you’re already under the truck and under the hood, you might as well do the one filter you breathe through too.

Step-by-Step Installation: Fuel Filters (Both Frame Rail + Engine Bay)

The 2017-2019 6.7L has two fuel filters — one on the driver’s side frame rail (primary, FD4625) and one under the hood (secondary). Both need to be changed together. Here’s the complete procedure.

Part A: Frame Rail Fuel Filter (FD4625)

The primary filter lives on the driver’s side frame rail, just ahead of the fuel tank. You’ll need to get under the truck.

Tools Required

• 36mm socket or strap wrench (filter removal)
• Drain bucket or catch bottle (at least 1 gallon — the housing holds over a gallon of diesel)
• Nitrile gloves and safety glasses
• 8mm / 9mm socket and ratchet (only if removing the entire housing bracket — see alternate method below)
• Torque wrench

Step 1: Drain the Water Separator

On the bottom of the filter housing, locate the yellow plastic drain valve. It only needs a quarter turn counterclockwise to open. The drain is slow — a tiny drip that can take 5-10 minutes to finish. One owner rushed it and took a 5-gallon diesel bath. The safe signal: when the flow slows to an occasional drip, you’re good. Let it drain until that point, then quarter-turn clockwise to close. Don’t forget to close the valve before reinstalling and priming — an open drain with the pump running means diesel spraying everywhere.

What to look for in the drained fuel: Water appears as clear bubbles or beads at the bottom (it’s heavier than diesel). Several owners in these videos confirmed finding water beads in their drained fuel — proof the separator is doing its job. No water = your fuel source is clean and your drains are working.

Pro tip from a Ford tech: drain the water separator once a month. You don’t need to change the filter — just quarter-turn the yellow valve, let it drip for 30 seconds into a bottle, and close it. The WIF sensor uses two pins that short when water bridges them. The exact threshold is unknown — by the time the light comes on, there could already be more water than you want near your injectors.

OEM drain plug weakness: The factory yellow plastic drain valve can crack or break with repeated use. SPE makes a machined aluminum replacement drain plug that won’t fail on you mid-drain. Not required, but worth the upgrade if you plan to keep the truck long-term.

Step 2: Disconnect the WIF Sensor and (2017 Only) Fuel Line

On the bottom of the housing, locate the water-in-fuel sensor connector. Push in on the connector, then press the release tab and pull back — this two-step technique is easier than pulling directly.

If you own a 2017: There is an additional fuel line on top of the frame rail filter module that must be disconnected. 2018-2019 models don’t have this line. Disconnect it before touching the bracket bolts.

Step 2A (Alternate Method): Remove the Entire Housing

If you can’t get a 36mm socket on the filter or it’s seized, unbolt the entire housing bracket from the frame. The housing is secured by 8mm / 9mm socket. A small impact driver with an 8mm works, but an 8mm u-joint extension helps on the two bolts that sit at tight angles. Tighten in a star pattern when reinstalling — snug them evenly, then a light quarter-turn past finger-tight. Overtightening strips the plastic threads.

Note: An earlier video reference showed 9mm nuts on a 2018. The bolt vs nut size varies slightly across model years — test-fit your socket before committing.

Step 3: Remove the Old Filter

With the 36mm socket on the filter body, turn counterclockwise. Factory-installed filters come unreasonably tight — use a breaker bar if needed. Once loose, spin off by hand. Expect some remaining diesel to drip. The filter cartridge has directional arrows molded into it — note the “removal” arrow direction for reference when installing the new one.

If you dropped the whole housing: The old cartridge slides out sideways from the cap (pull in the direction of the removal arrow). Dump the remaining fuel out and look inside. Clean the interior thoroughly with brake cleaner and shop rags. Important: note which side of the housing has only two bolts — that’s the side the grid/grille pattern of the filter housing faces when reinstalling. Getting it backwards means the bolt holes won’t line up.

Step 4: Install the New FD4625

Lubricate the new filter’s rubber gasket with a thin film of clean diesel fuel. The gasket has a rib design — it holds itself in the groove while you work. Thread it onto the housing by hand until the gasket contacts the sealing surface, then tighten 3/4 turn past hand-tight. Torque spec: 17-19 ft-lb. Most replacement filters come with a new gasket included — always use the new one.

Don’t overtighten: The housing is plastic and uses a massive O-ring to seal. Once the housing bottoms out against the sealing surface, add only a light quarter-turn snug. Cranking it down with an impact gun will crack the plastic or deform the gasket, creating the leak you’re trying to prevent.

Step 5: Reconnect and Finalize

Reconnect the WIF sensor connector — push it on until the tab clicks into place. Wipe everything dry with shop towels.

Part B: Engine Bay Fuel Filter (Secondary)

Open the hood and locate the secondary fuel filter housing on the driver’s side of the engine bay — it’s a black cylindrical housing with three fuel lines and one electrical connector.

Step 6: Disconnect the Lines and Connectors

There are four connections to undo. Each has a different release style — and all are made of flimsy plastic. Do not yank on the hoses. Squeeze the release tabs, let the connector break free on its own, and pull gently. Breaking a clip means buying an entire replacement line assembly.

1. Red locking tab (center connector) — push inward toward the center, then push down to release. Until it’s fully down, the connector won’t budge.
2. Blue tab (side connector) — push the tab up away from the filter body, then pull the connector straight off. This one usually comes first and gives you working room for the others.
3. White/green connector — pull the locking tab up first, then squeeze both release buttons inward toward the fuel line, and pull toward you. This is the stubborn one. A small pick or hook tool helps if the tab won’t budge.
4. Electrical connector — squeeze the sides and pull.

Take a photo with your phone before disconnecting anything. Drape a rag under the connectors — residual fuel in the lines will drip.

Step 7: Remove and Replace the Cartridge

Grip the filter housing cap and turn counterclockwise. The filter sits in a well of diesel — keep it tilted so fuel doesn’t spill everywhere as you lift it out. Remove the old cartridge, install the new one, and reverse the removal steps:

1. Insert the new cartridge into the housing
2. Turn the cap clockwise until snug
3. Reconnect the electrical connector
4. Reconnect the red tab connector — push UP until it clicks
5. Reconnect the blue tab connector — push on until it snaps
6. Reconnect the white/green connector — push down until secured

Critical: check the line mark on each connector. There’s a small raised line on each fuel line. When reinstalling, the clip must slide past that line. If the clip stops short of the line, the connector isn’t fully seated — the hose will pull off with a gentle tug even with the clip in the “locked” position. Test: give each connector a firm tug after clipping it. If it moves, push it further on and re-clip.

Orange/green connector — clamshell reinforcement: Ford includes a two-piece clamshell reinforcement clip in the Motorcraft filter kit for the return line connector. It snaps around the orange/green connector body after reconnection. Install both halves so the thicker end faces the filter side, squeeze until the seam is tight, and verify the gap is 0.75–1.2mm with a feeler gauge (or visually — no daylight visible through the seam). This is a safety upgrade ford added after discovering the return line can pop off under high pressure.

Step 8: Prime the Fuel System (Two-Stage Method)

The recommended order: one experienced DIY’er does the bottom filter first, primes the system, starts the truck to verify no leaks, then moves to the engine bay filter. This isolates any startup problem — if the truck won’t start after the bottom filter, you know the issue is the bottom install, not the engine bay. Other owners prefer doing the engine bay first (while the frame housing drains). Either sequence works as long as you complete the two-stage prime below.

Stage 1 — Fill the frame filter: Turn the key to RUN (one click, foot OFF the brake). Push-button start trucks: press the START button once with your foot OFF the brake — this puts the truck in accessory/ON mode without cranking. Listen — the in-tank electric lift pump will start pushing fuel. You’ll hear a high-pitched whine as it moves air, transitioning to a lower gurgle as fuel starts filling the empty frame-mounted filter housing. Let it run for 10 seconds, then turn the key OFF. Repeat 6 times (ON 10 seconds, OFF, repeat × 6). By the final cycle, the pump pitch should change from a high “air” whine to a lower, loaded tone — that’s your signal the frame filter is full.

Stage 2 — Final prime with both filters installed: After installing the engine bay filter, cycle the key to RUN one more time. The pump should sound immediately different (loaded/labored) because both filters now have fuel. This two-stage method reduces the total air the CP4.2 has to push through on first start.

Important: Your first start after a dual-filter change will likely be a long crank — the engine may turn over for 5-10 seconds before catching. This is normal. The HPFP is purging the last air from the high-pressure side. If it doesn’t start after 15 seconds of cranking, stop, cycle the key 2 more times, and try again.

After the engine starts, let it idle for 2 minutes. Inspect both fuel filter locations for leaks — verify the frame rail area, each engine bay fuel line connector, and the engine bay filter cap. Any diesel smell or wet spot means something isn’t fully seated. Wipe everything clean with shop rags after checking — a spotless work area is how you spot a slow leak days later before it becomes a problem.

Step-by-Step Installation: Oil Filter (FL2051S)

The FL2051S cartridge lives in a plastic housing on top of the engine, passenger side near the firewall.

Tools Required

• 32mm socket (oil filter cap)
• Ratchet and extension
• Drain pan (13+ quart capacity)
• 16mm socket or wrench (drain plug — also fits a 5/8" SAE)
• Torque wrench

Step 1: Warm and Drain

Run the engine 5 minutes if cold. If you just drove, let it cool 15 minutes — 13 quarts of 220°F oil will burn you badly. Open the oil fill cap (driver’s side, next to the coolant bottle) to break the vacuum before going underneath.

Position a 5-gallon bucket under the 16mm drain plug. A standard drain pan won’t hold 13 quarts plus the filter housing spill. Use the drain pan only for catching the filter drip — the bucket handles the main drain. Remove the 16mm drain plug and let it drain completely.

While you wait: The driver’s side frame rail fuel filter is right there under the cab. Twist the yellow knob counterclockwise to drain a splash of fuel into a clear container and check for water. If you see water beads at the bottom or the fuel looks cloudy, your filter is doing its job — but it might be time to change it. This takes 30 seconds and is the easiest early-warning check for bad fuel.

Step 2: Remove the Oil Filter

Use your 32mm socket on the filter cap. If you did the last oil change yourself and hand-tightened properly, you may not even need a wrench — many owners can loosen the plastic cap by hand. If using a socket, just crack it loose, then finish by hand.

Bag trick: Wrap a ziploc freezer bag (quart size) around the cap and filter assembly before you pull it all the way out. One owner who tested this method for the first time on camera called it flawless — “no mess at all.” Once the filter is inside, zip the bag shut with the old filter trapped inside and you’ve got zero drips to clean up.

Step 3: Replace the Cartridge

With the cap and old cartridge on your workbench: the FL2051S pulls off the center stem. Clean the inside of the housing with shop towels. Snap the new cartridge onto the stem — it clicks into place. Replace the cap O-ring with the new one (lubricate with fresh oil). Thread the cap back on by hand until the rim sits flush against the housing — no visible gap. Hand-tighten firmly, then torque to 18 ft-lb with a torque wrench if you’re precise. The O-ring does the sealing; the threads just hold the cap in place.

Step 4: Refill and Check

Pour in 13 quarts of full synthetic 5W-40 (API CK-4 or CJ-4). Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 is the most common choice. Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck and Motorcraft Diesel are also proven. The oil fill cap on the driver’s side valve cover is stamped with the spec — earlier models say “CJ-4” while later ones show “CK-4” (the newer standard). Either is correct for the 2017-2019 6.7L.

Warning: ignore the owner’s manual if it says 15 quarts. That’s a known Ford typo that one owner pointed out on camera — the real capacity is 13 quarts. Putting in 15 quarts with the filter change will overfill the engine and risk crankshaft aeration.

About oil color: Don’t panic when your dipstick oil looks black after 50 miles. The 6.7L Powerstroke (like all modern diesels) produces soot that darkens fresh oil almost immediately. One owner who sends his oil to Blackstone for analysis at every change reports that at 9,500 miles, the lab consistently says the lubricity package is still intact and he could run longer. Black does not mean bad — it means diesel. The only way to know your oil’s condition is a $30 lab analysis, not your eyeballs.

Step 5: Oil Life Reset

Press START twice (no brake). Use steering wheel arrows → Settings → Vehicle → Oil Life Reset. Press and hold OK until it resets to 100%. The oil minder typically triggers around 9,500 miles on a mix of highway and towing duty — sooner if you do heavy towing or extended idle (common in winter with remote start).

Pro Tip: Check Everything While the Oil Drains

You’ve got 15 minutes of drain time. Use it: check the transmission fluid dipstick on the passenger side, inspect the serpentine belt for cracking, look at the coolant level in the degas bottle, and — easiest early-warning check on the truck — twist the yellow drain knob on the driver’s side frame rail fuel filter housing. Drain a splash into a clear bottle. If you see water beads or cloudy fuel, the water separator is doing its job and may be close to full.

Air Filter (FA1927) and Cabin Filter (FP92)

FA1927 Air Filter: 5 Minutes, No Tools

The air box is on the passenger side of the engine bay. Four clips hold the lid — unclip, lift, swap the filter, close. Check the old filter: if you hold it up to the sun and can’t see light through the pleats, it was overdue. A clogged air filter on a diesel doesn’t throw a check engine light — it just secretly increases fuel consumption and DPF regeneration frequency.

FP92 Cabin Filter: 15 Minutes, 7mm Socket Required

The cabin filter swap is more involved than expected. Two verified owners (2018 F-350 and 2019 F-250) demonstrated the same procedure with one key difference: Lariat+ trims access the screws through the upper glove box; XL/XLT go through the main glovebox.

Tools needed:

• 7mm socket on a driver or small ratchet
• Plastic trim tool (the dash clips are tight — this makes it much easier)

Lariat+ (upper glove box):

1. Press the button to open the upper glove box. Inside is a black rubber liner tray — grab and pull straight up. Removing it exposes the two 7mm screws. Skip to step 4.

OEM vs washable: The factory FP92 is a paper filter. K&N offers a washable alternative (VF2049) with a taller rubber ridge on one side — install that side UP, acting as a tray edge. The K&N pays for itself after 2-3 changes.

XL/XLT (main glovebox only):

1. Open the main glovebox. On the outside-right face, you’ll see a bar behind a small plastic slot — push it toward you and down from outside the glovebox to release the front. On the right inside edge, find the hydraulic damper arm — pull it straight toward you to unclip.
2. Push the two side stopper tabs inward to drop the glovebox fully down.
3. Above the glovebox opening, a black rubber weatherstrip runs horizontally — pull straight toward you to peel it off. This exposes the two 7mm screws.

All trims: 4. (Lariat+ only) Remove the two 7mm screws exposed in step 1. Skip to step 6. 5. (XL/XLT) Remove the two 7mm screws exposed in step 3. 6. Pull off the lower dash panel. Use a trim tool to pry from one corner, then work across. Three clips hold it underneath — the panel resists until the first one pops, then the rest come easily. Swing the panel aside — leave the wiring harnesses connected. One owner found a small rubber nipple falls off the back during removal (it mounts on a plastic clip) — if it drops, look at the back of the panel to refit it. 7. Open the honeycomb access door. Rectangular, honeycomb-textured, one clip per side — hook your fingers around the edges and pull toward you. 8. Swap the filter. Old FP92 out, new FP92 in. Airflow arrow points down (toward blower motor). Ford’s owner’s manual (page 579) calls for replacement at 20,000 miles. One owner pulled his at 25,000 miles and it was black with leaves, bugs, and road soot — the 20,000-mile number isn’t a suggestion. 9. Reverse: door snaps shut → panel clips back (three bottom clips, two end tabs) → 7mm screws → damper reconnect (if XL/XLT) → rubber trim or liner tray back → glovebox stoppers + latch. Test: cycle the A/C fan through all speeds before closing up the glovebox — a whistling sound means the filter isn’t seated or the door isn’t fully latched.

Why this matters: The FP92 is a $20 filter protecting a $400-600 blower motor and your lungs. A clogged cabin filter doesn’t just smell bad — it forces the blower motor to work against resistance, shortening its life.

Five Expensive Mistakes 2017-2019 Powerstroke Owners Make

Mistake 1: Using FD4615 Instead of FD4625

The 2011-2016 fuel filter (FD4615) looks almost identical but has a different thread pitch. It will either not thread on at all, or worse, partially thread, hold briefly, and then blow off under pressure — dumping diesel on a hot exhaust downstream. If the part number doesn’t say FD4625, it’s not for your truck.

Mistake 2: Priming Only Once or Twice

The dual-filter fuel system holds over a gallon of diesel. One or two key-on cycles moves fuel maybe 1/3 of the way through both filter housings and 15 feet of fuel line. Start the engine after insufficient priming and the CP4.2 runs dry — metal-on-metal contact at 30,000 PSI. Minimum 5-6 key-on cycles, listening for the pump pitch to change from a high whine (pushing air) to a lower labored tone (pushing fuel). If you can still hear the high whine on cycle 5, do a 6th.

Mistake 3: Ignoring the Cabin Filter

The FP92 cabin filter is out of sight, out of mind. But a clogged cabin filter reduces airflow through the HVAC system, makes the blower motor work harder (which burns it out faster), and means every particle of diesel soot, pollen, and road dust you pass through enters the cabin unfiltered. A $20 filter protects a $600 blower motor and your lungs.

Mistake 4: Using 15W-40 Instead of 5W-40

The 6.7L Powerstroke calls for 5W-40 full synthetic. 15W-40 conventional diesel oil (common in older Cummins and Powerstroke engines) is too thick at cold start for the 6.7L’s tighter bearing clearances, especially in winter. The turbocharger relies on immediate oil flow at startup — thick oil means the turbo bearing runs dry for the first few seconds.

Mistake 5: Changing Only One Fuel Filter

The 2017-2019 6.7L Powerstroke has two fuel filters. If you change the frame rail filter but skip the engine bay filter (or vice versa), the old filter becomes the bottleneck — all the fuel still passes through it. The engine bay filter is easy to miss because it doesn’t look like a typical spin-on canister. Always change both together.

Mistake 6: Changing the Fuel Filter Without Draining First

If you spin off the frame rail FD4625 without draining the water separator first, over a gallon of diesel and water dumps out uncontrolled — all over you, your driveway, and potentially onto hot exhaust components. Turn the yellow drain valve counterclockwise, let it drain completely into a bucket, and close it clockwise before you touch the filter.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I change the fuel filters on my 2017-2019 6.7L Powerstroke?

Ford’s official interval is every 30,000 miles (owner’s manual, page 579). However, virtually every experienced owner and diesel shop recommends changing them at 15,000 miles — and sooner (10,000) if you tow heavy, idle extended periods, or buy fuel from high-turnover truck stops where water contamination risk is higher. The filters are $55 for both on Amazon and the dealer charges $152 for the service, so changing them early is cheap insurance against a CP4.2 failure.

Does this kit include both fuel filters (frame rail AND engine bay)?

Yes. The TruckTok kit includes the FD4625 frame rail filter AND the secondary engine bay fuel filter — both need to be changed together. This is a critical difference from buying single Motorcraft filters at the dealer, where the parts counter will sell you one or the other unless you specifically ask for both. Note that the FD4624 is a cross-referenced supersession of the FD4625 — either part number serves the same application.

How much oil does the 2017-2019 6.7L Powerstroke take?

13 quarts (12.3 liters) with filter change. Confirmed by multiple owners — one notes the owner’s manual incorrectly lists 15 quarts, which is a known typo. The correct fill is exactly 13. Always verify with the dipstick after the first start and 10-minute settling period. The engine oil will turn black within the first 50 miles of driving — this is normal for a diesel and does not indicate the oil is worn out. If you want actual data on your oil’s condition, a Blackstone oil analysis costs about $30.

How often should I change the oil?

The factory oil life minder triggers at approximately 9,500 miles for mixed driving (some highway, some towing). It adjusts down for heavy towing (lots of regeneration cycles) and extended idle time. If you use the oil minder as your guide, you’re within Ford’s recommendation. Heavy towers and frequent short-trippers should cut that to 7,500 miles.

Does this kit include the CCV filter?

No. The CCV (crankcase ventilation) filter is a separate maintenance item not included in this four-filter kit. The CCV filter should be replaced approximately every 60,000-75,000 miles.

Is the FD4625 the same as the FD4615?

No. FD4615 fits 2011-2016 6.7L Powerstroke. FD4625 fits 2017-2019. The 2017+ also adds a secondary engine-bay fuel filter that the 2011-2016 didn’t have. The thread pitch, housing diameter, and water sensor interface all differ. They are not interchangeable.

How many fuel filters does the 2017-2019 6.7L Powerstroke have?

Two. One frame-mounted primary (FD4625/FD4624) and one engine-bay secondary. The 2011-2016 had only one frame-mounted filter. If you came from an earlier Powerstroke and assumed one filter, you’re missing half the protection.

What does the dealer charge for a dual fuel filter change?

One verified owner called his local Ford dealer and was quoted $152 for labor and materials on a 2017 F-250. The same Motorcraft OEM fuel filters cost $55 on Amazon. DIY savings on just the fuel filters: ~$100 and 30-45 minutes. Add the oil, air, and cabin filter and the dealership bill climbs well past $400.

Can I use aftermarket filters instead of Motorcraft?

Yes, as long as they meet the same specifications. The TruckTok kit uses filters manufactured to Motorcraft-equivalent specs. Avoid no-name filters that don’t list micron ratings — the CP4.2 pump doesn’t forgive shortcuts.

Why is the eBay OEM kit $192.74 for three filters when TruckTok is $131.40 for four?

eBay sellers mark up Motorcraft-branded parts because they know “Motorcraft OEM” commands a premium. The actual dealer MSRP for all four filters bought separately is about $151. And the eBay kit STILL doesn’t include the cabin filter — you’d need to buy that separately for another $20-25.

Does the FA1927 air filter fit both 2011-2016 and 2017-2019 trucks?

The FA1927 is primarily for 2017-2019. Some 2015-2016 trucks also use it, but always verify by checking the existing filter part number in your air box. The earlier FA1902 is a different shape.

What happens if I don’t change the cabin filter?

Reduced HVAC airflow, musty odor, blower motor strain leading to premature failure ($400-600 repair), and unfiltered cabin air. It’s a $20 filter that takes 5 minutes to change.

Do I need to reset anything after changing the fuel filter?

No. The fuel system self-primes through the in-tank lift pump. The only reset needed is the oil life monitor after an oil change (see Step 4 in the oil filter section).

How do I know if my fuel filter is clogged?

Symptoms: hesitation under heavy throttle, reduced fuel economy, longer cranking time before starting, and eventually a P0087 (low fuel rail pressure) code. If you’re experiencing any of these, change the fuel filter immediately — don’t wait for the next scheduled interval.

Is the FP92 cabin filter the same as the FP79?

Similar but not identical. The FP79 fits earlier Super Duty models. The FP92 is the correct part for 2017-2019. Both are Motorcraft cabin filters, but the dimensions differ slightly.

Can I change the fuel filter without lifting the truck?

On a stock-height F-250/F-350, there’s enough clearance to reach the frame rail filter housing without lifting, but it’s tight. Ramps make the job significantly more comfortable. On a F-450/F-550, the additional ride height usually allows access without lifting.

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