2020-2023 Ram 1500 EcoDiesel Filter Guide (68436631AA / 68507598AA)

The $22 Filter Set That Nearly Cost Me a Fuel System

My 2021 Ram 1500 EcoDiesel hit its first fuel-filter service around 40,000 miles. I did what most people do — I searched, sorted by price, and found a “fuel + oil filter kit” for $22. The title said it fit a 2020-2023 Ram 1500 3.0L EcoDiesel. It had four stars. It shipped in two days.

What I did not know then is that on this engine the fuel filter is not a fuel screen. It is a water separator, and its entire job is stripping water out of diesel before that water reaches a high-pressure pump running at 29,000 psi. The $22 kit had a fuel element and nothing else — no stated micron rating, no third-party water-separation figure, no way to know what was inside the can.

Six thousand miles later I was climbing I-70 into the Eisenhower Tunnel when the dash lit up: Service Electronic Throttle Control, then Service DEF System See Dealer. The truck went into limp mode at 11,000 feet with a snowstorm coming in.

The dealer diagnosed it in twenty minutes. A collapsed fuel filter element had starved the high-pressure pump, and the resulting pressure drop threw sensor codes that had nothing to do with the DEF system. The fix was a filter. The diagnostics were the expensive part.

I got lucky — no pump damage, no injectors, no metal in the rail. Plenty of people are not lucky. That is why this guide exists, and why the first thing it tells you is not a price.

Why the 2020-2023 EcoDiesel Is Not the 2014-2019 Truck

There are two generations of the 3.0L EcoDiesel, and they do not share a single filter. This is the most expensive mistake on the platform, because the part numbers look similar and sellers mix them up constantly.

Generation 2 (2014-2019) uses the 68235275AB fuel/water separator and the 68229402AA oil filter, and those trucks carry the Classic badge from 2019 onward.

Generation 3 (2020-2023) — the truck this guide is about — uses the 68436631AA fuel/water separator and the 68507598AA oil filter. Nothing crosses over. The housings are different, the O-ring dimensions are different, and the filter that “almost threads in” is worse than the one that will not thread in at all, because it can hold just long enough to pass unfiltered fuel before it lets go.

A careless Amazon or eBay title will say “fits all EcoDiesel.” That title is wrong, and the seller who wrote it does not know which truck they are selling parts for. If a listing cannot tell you which generation it fits, it does not know.

Two useful things that are shared:

• The Jeep Wrangler JL and Gladiator JT with the 3.0L EcoDiesel use the exact same four filters. Same engine family, same service procedure. If you own both, one part number covers both.
• 2023 was the last year. The EcoDiesel was discontinued after 2023, which means the aftermarket’s attention is already moving elsewhere — another reason to buy filters by part number rather than by “fits my truck” guesswork.

What You Actually Get: Four Filters, Four Jobs

This kit covers all four replaceable filtration paths on a Gen 3 EcoDiesel. They are not interchangeable jobs, and they do not share an interval.

Filter	Part number	What it does	Interval
Fuel/water separator	68436631AA (PF46152, PG3255)	Chassis-mounted water separator with a water-in-fuel sensor; strips water and fine particulate before the high-pressure pump — the factory spec is 3 micron	20,000 miles
Engine oil filter	68507598AA (68498720AA, Wix WL10614)	Cartridge element in a composite cap assembly with pre-installed O-rings	10,000 miles
Engine air filter	68441763AA (DPA3462, Wix 42725, Baldwin PA10022)	High-capacity synthetic panel feeding the variable-geometry turbo	30,000 miles
Cabin air filter	68406048AA (68535623AA, CF11671, Wix 24579)	Activated carbon panel; captures exhaust odor as well as dust	30,000 miles

The fuel filter is a water separator, not a screen. 68436631AA is a cartridge element that lives inside a permanent housing mounted inside the frame rail behind the left front wheel — the manual’s own words are that the best access to the drain valve is from under the vehicle. Water droplets coalesce on the media and settle in the bottom of that housing, where the water-in-fuel sensor sits. This matters more on the EcoDiesel than on almost any other diesel because of what happens at pressure: water at 29,000 psi does not lubricate, it flash-boils, and the steam pockets that form erode injector tips and micro-pit the pump plungers. The filter is not maintenance. It is the only defense.

The oil filter is an assembly, not a bare cartridge. On the 2020-2023 trucks the factory oil filter comes as a cartridge clipped into a new composite cap with both O-rings already seated — one for the cap-to-housing joint and one for the center tube. That detail is the whole point of buying the right part, because the O-ring seats on that cap are where EcoDiesel oil leaks begin. Pinch the center-tube O-ring during installation and you get a slow weep that looks exactly like a failed rear main seal: $1,200 in diagnostic labor to find a three-dollar problem.

The air filter feeds a turbo that spins past 150,000 rpm. The Gen 3 EcoDiesel’s variable-geometry turbo moves serious air at full boost, and a grain of silica that gets past a compromised air filter hits the compressor wheel at supersonic relative velocity. It chips the blade edge, the imbalance accelerates bearing wear, and you are shopping for a turbo instead of a filter.

The engine side of that equation is worse. Burning a single liter of diesel takes roughly 10,000 liters of air, and once an element is loaded past its capacity it stops merely restricting flow and starts letting grit through — and a paper element that has been soaked or run well past its interval can tear outright, which is an open door. In the trade, the result is called a dusted engine: abrasive dust rides the piston rings up and down the bore, scrapes the cylinder wall, and opens up the gap those rings depend on to hold compression. Lose compression and the engine is finished. Heavy-truck shops rebuild a $60,000 engine in-frame for $30,000-plus because it is worth doing; a pickup engine generally is not. That is the argument for a cheap filter you actually change.

The cabin filter is the one nobody sells you. Standard paper cabin filters do nothing for diesel exhaust odor, which is why “my truck smells like diesel inside” is one of the most common EcoDiesel complaints — and why owners chase it through fuel line inspections and injector seal checks instead of replacing a $25 filter. The 68406048AA element is activated carbon. Good news for 2020-2023 owners specifically: the New Body trucks have a factory access door behind the glovebox, so there is no cutting, no retrofit tray, and no modification. It is a two-minute job.

What You Actually Pay: Mopar, eBay, Amazon and Doc’s

We checked every major channel where these four filters are sold. Prices verified September 2026.

Source	What you get	Price
TruckTok (this kit)	Fuel + oil (cap assembly) + air + cabin	$113.40
Mopar OEM, diesel parts retailer	Fuel + oil + air — no cabin filter	$143.66
Mopar OEM, diesel parts retailer	Fuel + oil	$116.79
eBay, OEM Mopar kit	Fuel + oil	$149.98 – $181.35
eBay, aftermarket kit	Fuel + oil	~$45 – $55
Doc’s Diesel (Amazon)	Fuel + oil set, OEM-grade	$71.99
Amazon, white-label kit	Fuel + oil	$21.99 – $22.86
Amazon, white-label single	Fuel filter only (iFJF)	$13.99
Mopar dealer parts site	Fuel filter only	$66.08 (MSRP $93.40)
Mopar OEM, diesel parts retailer	Oil filter assembly only	$62.95
Mopar OEM, dealer parts site	Cabin filter only	$26.80 (MSRP $38.35)
Amazon, white-label	Air + cabin kit	$29.76

Sources: Mopar dealer parts sites (moparonlineparts, moparpartsgiant), diesel parts retailers (dieselfiltersonline, dieselpowerproducts, quadratec), eBay kit listings, Amazon marketplace listings, and Doc’s Diesel’s Amazon storefront. Prices exclude tax and shipping.

The short version: this kit’s four filters cost less than Mopar’s two-filter kit. Assemble the same four filters from Mopar individually — $66.08 for the fuel, $62.95 for the oil assembly, roughly $30-40 for the air filter, $26.80 for the cabin — and you are somewhere around $190. Add dealer labor and you can double it.

And the counter reality is worse than the table shows. A single OEM oil filter for this engine commonly runs close to $100 over a parts counter, and a dealer oil change can land near $300. Owners who do the math once tend to stop buying filters one at a time.

What the table will not tell you is the thing that actually matters, so here it is plainly:

• Most “EcoDiesel filter kits” do not include the cabin filter. Check the contents, not the title. The two-filter kits at the top of the price sort are fuel and oil, full stop.
• The $22 white-label sets are not the same product as the $72 Doc’s set, and neither is the same product as an OEM assembly. Ask what the oil filter in the kit actually is. If it is a bare cartridge, you are reusing your old cap and its old O-rings — the exact parts that leak.
• The cheapest fuel filter on the shelf is the one with no published micron or water-separation figure. On a 29,000-psi system, “unknown” is not a specification.

What to Look For When Buying

Gen 3 (2020–2023) vs Gen 2 (2014–2019) Year Cutoff. The 2020–2023 EcoDiesel (Gen 3) uses 68436631AA (Fuel) and 68507598AA (Oil). The 2014–2019 EcoDiesel (Gen 2 / Classic) uses 68235275AB and 68229402AA. They are completely non-interchangeable.

Complete Cap Assembly Oil Filter (68507598AA). Ensure the oil filter includes the composite top cap with pre-seated O-rings. Reusing old heat-cycled caps causes oil weeps that mimic rear main seal failures.

Activated Carbon Cabin Filter (68406048AA). Standard paper cabin filters fail to trap raw diesel exhaust odors. Ensure the kit includes an activated carbon layer to keep the cab odorless.

Verified 3-Micron Rating & Hydrophobic Coalescer. The fuel filter must clear FCA’s strict 3-micron specification with an outer fine mesh wrapper to separate water before it hits the 29,000 PSI high-pressure pump.

Cross-Reference Part Number Verification. Verify explicit part numbers (68436631AA / PF46152) rather than generic "fits EcoDiesel" titles.

Installation: Four Filters, Two Under the Truck and Two Up Front

Budget an afternoon for the first pass. Nothing here needs a lift — a stock-height Ram 1500 has eight to ten inches of ground clearance and the fuel filter is reachable from the ground.

Tools you will need: a 27mm (or 1-1/16") socket on a 1/2-inch drive ratchet for the oil filter cap, a 28mm socket or a four-tang filter wrench for the fuel filter housing, a 13mm socket for the oil drain plug, a 10mm socket for the air box cover, a torque wrench that reads inch-pounds and foot-pounds, a pick or small flathead for O-rings, a 3/8-inch inside-diameter hose stub for the fuel filter drain, a small funnel, a drain pan that holds at least 2.5 gallons, nitrile gloves, and a clean rag. A cut-down plastic cup makes a useful oil chute, and ramps are optional but give you working room.

Step 1: The cabin filter — the ninety-second job

The 2020-2023 New Body trucks are the easy ones here: the filter sits behind the glovebox, and the factory already put a door in front of it. Start by disengaging the damper cord on the right side of the glovebox — lift the box slightly while pulling firmly down on the base of the cord linkage until you feel it release, then let the cord retract out of the way.

Then drop the glovebox: squeeze the two tabs at its top back corners while pulling the box out toward you, and keep lowering it until the three hinge tabs along its bottom edge release from the dash. Set the box aside.

Behind it is the filter cover, labelled airflow, with one locking tab on each side. Press and release both tabs at the same time and pull the cover outward. Now you can see the element. Note the airflow arrow before the old one comes out: on these trucks it points down, toward the blower and the floor. Pull the old element out, and while the housing is open, look inside for leaves and grit and clear them out.

Slide the new carbon element in the same way — writing facing you, arrow down — and it should drop in on nothing more than light pressure. If you have to force it, you are hung up on something. Refit the cover with the arrow still pointing down, lining its two outer mounting tabs up with the housing and pressing until you feel the tabs click.

Refitting the glovebox is the only part of this job that fights back. Insert the three lower hinge tabs into the dash, tip the box up, and pull the damper cord out of the way as you push its two back-side tabs past their seats. There are three clip points along the bottom edge, and the two outer ones are thin enough to fold over and snap — start at the middle, tuck the small stop behind where it belongs on each side, and work outward. If it is not going together with gentle pressure, back off and re-align instead of shoving; a broken tab means a new glovebox door. Finish by snapping the damper cord linkage back in until it clicks home, then close the box and confirm it latches.

Two minutes, and it is the single most noticeable interior improvement you can make on a diesel truck.

Step 2: The engine air filter

The air box sits on the passenger side of the engine bay. The cover is held by six 10mm bolts — and they are captive, so loosen them, do not take them out (some Ram 1500 air boxes use four spring clips with four hooks along the back edge instead; those hooks have to be engaged before you latch the clips. Same job either way, so check what your truck has). Back all six off, lift the cover, and pull the old filter; if it has bonded to the housing, a small flat-blade screwdriver pries it up gently. Vacuum the box out — dust sitting in there will find its way into the new pleats.

The new 68441763AA panel has a foam sealing border around its outer edge, and that border is the entire seal. Seat it with the inspection surface facing downward so the foam sits correctly against the bottom of the box, then set the cover on and check that the foam is still aligned and seated against the cover too. Start all six bolts by hand, and only once every one has caught, snug them evenly. Hand-tight is the spec; leaning on them just crushes the foam you are trying to seal.

If you tow on gravel or work near construction sites, look at this filter at every oil change rather than waiting for 30,000 miles.

Step 3: Engine Oil & Cap-Assembly Filter Replacement (68507598AA)

Crack Cap First — Use a 27mm socket (or 1-1/16") to crack open the top composite oil filter cap behind the radiator before draining oil, ensuring the cap isn't seized.

Drain Sump — Drain engine oil using a 13mm socket on the oil pan plug.(Tip: Use a cut plastic cup as a chute over the crossmember to prevent splashing).

Replace Cap Assembly — Lift out the old cap/cartridge unit, wipe residual oil from housing, lube new O-rings with fresh oil, and hand-thread the new 68507598AA assembly.

Torque Cap Precisely — Torque cap to 18 ft-lbs (25 Nm) using a torque wrench.(Crucial: Overtightening cracks the plastic composite housing).

Refill Engine Oil — Refill with 8.5 to 10 quarts of 5W-40 Full Synthetic oil meeting FCA MS-12991 spec.

Oil Life Reset — Ignition ON (without cranking) → Navigate dashboard to `Vehicle Info` → `Oil Life` → Press and hold OK to reset to 100%.

Step 4: The chassis fuel/water separator

The 68436631AA element sits inside a permanent housing mounted inside the frame rail behind the left front wheel on the driver’s side, and the manual’s own wording is that the best access to the drain valve is from under the vehicle. Ramps help but are not mandatory.

A note if you own two trucks, or if you have been searching by part number. The 2019+ Ram 2500/3500 uses this same 68436631AA element but mounts it at the rear of the frame near the fuel tank, and the 2014-2019 1500 puts its housing under the truck above the propshaft, just ahead of the rear axle. Same style of housing, three different addresses. On a 2020-2023 1500 the separator is up front behind the left front wheel — do not go looking in the back of the truck.

Expect diesel — get a container underneath before you touch anything, and never drain the separator with the engine running. Diesel destroys asphalt, so it goes into the pan, not onto the driveway. There is a drain on the housing: crack it first and let the fuel and any water run out, then close it. It is plastic, so snug is the spec, not tight.

Now here is the step that separates a clean job from a diesel bath. Do not take the cover all the way off yet. Break it loose with a 28mm socket or a four-tang filter wrench that grabs the lugs on the cap, and unscrew it only until the housing burps and fuel starts running out of the drain again — the housing holds fuel by suction, so there is more in there than the drain alone will give you. Wait for that second lot to stop, and only then spin the cover the rest of the way off and lift the old element out.

The new element only fits one way — tabs into their matching slots, then it snaps into place. If it will not seat, it is backwards. You are replacing the element, not the housing: the housing, its drain, and its water-in-fuel sensor all stay on the truck. Wipe the residual fuel out of the housing before anything goes back in.

Fit the new element with its new O-ring. A few O-ring notes that save real time:

• Use a pick, and point it away from the O-ring — slide it underneath and curl up. Stabbing straight down is how you cut an O-ring you may need again.
• Lubricate the new O-ring with clean diesel if you have it. A couple of drops of engine oil is fine here — this seal closes the bottom of the housing and never sees the fuel path.
• Keep the old O-ring until the leak check is finished. It will get you out of trouble if the new one weeps, and O-rings come with a filter, not on their own.

Thread the cover on by hand all the way, then snug it with the wrench — a little past hand tight is the entire spec, and the figure is printed right on the cap itself: 25 Nm, about 18 ft-lb. Lean on it and you will distort or crack the plastic, and then you have a real problem.

Start the engine, let it idle for five minutes, and look again for drips at the O-ring and the drain before you drive anywhere.

Step 5: Prime it, and do not rush this one

This is the step the manual understates. The book says two RUN cycles. Experienced owners know better, because a dry element holds more air than the manual accounts for.

On a 2020-2023 truck, press START twice without touching the brake to enter RUN, let the lift pump run — it times out on its own after twenty to thirty seconds — then cycle off. The manual is satisfied with two cycles; most owners keep going to four to six. Listen to the pump rather than counting: it starts with a gurgle as it pushes air out of the housing, and it settles into a smooth hum once the housing is full and the system is pressurized. Start the engine only after the gurgle is gone.

Skipping this is how fuel filters kill high-pressure pumps. Air at the pump inlet causes cavitation, cavitation micro-pits the plungers, and micro-pitting accumulates quietly for twenty thousand miles. It is not a dramatic failure. It is a slow one you paid for by being impatient in your driveway.

Step 6: Final checks

Run the engine and check all four locations: the oil filter cap for weeping, the drain plug, the fuel filter housing and its drain for drips, and the air box cover for a clean seat. Take a short drive, then look again with the engine warm — a sealing ring that passes a cold idle check can still weep once everything is hot. Write the date and mileage on the fuel filter housing with a marker; it is the cheapest service record you will ever keep.

One more thing that pairs naturally with this service: the EcoDiesel carries a DEF tank, and owners typically top it up with a 2.5-gallon jug and then check the gauge on the next start. It is not part of the filter kit, but if the truck is already up and the hood is open, it is a two-minute add.

Five Expensive Mistakes

Mistake #1: Ordering the 2014-2019 kit

The Gen 2 part numbers — 68235275AB and 68229402AA — do not fit a 2020-2023 truck. This is the most common wrong-order on the platform, because the titles are nearly identical and the years overlap at the 2019 Classic.

Mistake #2: Reusing the oil filter cap and its O-rings

The O-rings take a compression set after ten thousand miles of heat cycling. Reuse them and you get a slow weep at the cap-to-housing joint that gets misdiagnosed as a rear main seal. The cap itself is heat-cycled composite; replacing the assembly costs less than one hour of diagnostic labor.

Mistake #3: Over-torquing the composite oil filter cap

Eighteen foot-pounds is the spec. A ratcheting by feel will happily deliver forty. Cracked oil filter caps are the single most common DIY failure on this engine, and the replacement cap is a real part number, not a hardware store item.

Mistake #4: Cutting the prime short

Two RUN cycles is the manual’s minimum, not the real number. Four to six, and wait for the pump to smooth out. Air in the fuel system is the failure mode that does not announce itself.

Mistake #5: Treating the air and cabin filters as optional

The fuel and oil filters protect the engine. The air filter protects the turbo, and the cabin filter protects the thing you actually notice — a cab that smells like diesel. Neither one is expensive, and neither one gets changed by owners who only buy the two-filter kits.

Watch the other direction too. An air filter is a five-minute job, which is exactly why quick-lube shops upsell them: one owner’s mother paid $85 for an air filter that had been replaced six months earlier. Pull the filter and look at the intake side yourself before you agree to one — the underside always looks new, and the intake side is the one that tells the truth.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does this kit fit my truck?

It fits 2020-2023 Ram 1500 trucks with the 3.0L V6 EcoDiesel Gen 3 engine — the New Body Style. It does not fit 2014-2019 trucks, including 2019 Ram 1500 Classic models, which use the Gen 2 filter set. If you are not certain which you have, the 2019 model year is the dividing line: Classic equals Gen 2.

What exactly is in the box?

Four filters: the 68436631AA fuel/water separator, the 68507598AA engine oil filter as a complete cap assembly, the 68441763AA engine air filter, and the 68406048AA activated carbon cabin filter. Factory-spec O-rings and sealing rings come with the fuel and oil filters.

What are the correct part numbers for a 2020-2023 EcoDiesel?

Fuel: 68436631AA. Oil: 68507598AA (supersedes 68498720AA; Wix WL10614). Air: 68441763AA. Cabin: 68406048AA (supersedes to 68535623AA; also sold as CF11671). Cross-reference any of these against the listing before you buy.

What oil does it take, and how much?

5W-40 full-synthetic meeting the FCA MS-12991 specification — the European-spec 5W-40 your manual calls for, not a generic heavy-duty diesel oil. The book calls for 8.5 quarts with a filter change; in practice a fully drained sump often takes 9 to 10.5 quarts to reach the mark. Fill to the dipstick, not to a number.

How often should I change each filter?

Oil filter every 10,000 miles with the oil. Fuel/water separator every 20,000 miles — the manual’s own phrasing is “every other oil change” — and every 10,000 miles in severe service, or if you fuel in states with known fuel-cleanliness issues (Pennsylvania, New York, Ohio, Maryland, West Virginia, Arkansas, Oklahoma, Kansas, Iowa, Missouri, Nebraska). Owners who fill from farm tanks or small rural stations also change it at 10,000 as cheap insurance, and plenty of independent shops still default to 15,000 for the same reason. Air and cabin filters every 30,000 miles — or every three years if you do not cover those miles, whichever comes first — and sooner if you tow in dust. On the cabin filter specifically, do not wait for the odometer: owners who pull theirs at the one-year mark routinely find them visibly loaded, so check it annually and replace what looks done. If you are doing the 30,000-mile service anyway, doing all four at once is the whole point of a bundle.

Do I need a lift or specialty tools?

No lift. A stock-height Ram 1500 gives you enough clearance to reach the chassis fuel filter from the ground. The only tools worth buying are a 28mm socket (or a four-tang fuel filter wrench), the 27mm socket for the oil cap, and a torque wrench.

How do I reset the oil life monitor?

Do not start the engine. Press START twice with your foot off the brake to reach RUN (key-ignition trucks just turn the key to RUN). Use the up/down arrows to reach the second menu, Vehicle Info, then the left/right arrows to scroll to Oil Life. Press and hold OK and the display resets to 100%. No scan tool required on 2020-2023 models.

How do I prime the fuel system after changing the fuel filter?

Press START twice without touching the brake, let the lift pump run, then cycle off — four to six times. Listen for the pump to change from a gurgle to a smooth hum. Start the engine only after the air is out.

What does the “Water In Fuel” message mean?

Two metal probes inside the filter housing have detected water at the bottom of the housing. Water conducts better than diesel, so the sensor reads the resistance between the probes. Drain it: container under the housing drain, open it by hand, and drain until clean diesel appears — usually a couple of ounces of water first. If the filter has more than 10,000 miles on it, replace it rather than draining, because water sitting against the media degrades the separation layer.

Why is the white-label Amazon kit so much cheaper?

Because it is usually fuel and oil only — no air filter, no cabin filter — and the oil filter is often a bare cartridge rather than the complete cap assembly, which means you reuse your old cap and O-rings. Some of those kits are legitimate. The problem is that the listing rarely tells you which one you are buying, and on a 29,000-psi fuel system an unspecified filter is a bet, not a bargain.

Will this kit fit a Jeep Wrangler or Gladiator EcoDiesel?

Yes. The 2020-2023 Wrangler JL and Gladiator JT with the 3.0L EcoDiesel use the same 68436631AA fuel filter, 68507598AA oil filter, 68441763AA air filter and 68406048AA cabin filter. Same engine, same service.

Do I have to cut an access door for the cabin filter?

Not on a 2020-2023 New Body Ram 1500. Those trucks have a factory access door behind the glovebox, so the filter slides straight out with no modification and no retrofit tray. The cutting that shows up in older how-to videos applies to earlier trucks with a blanked-off housing.

Get All Four Filters, in One Box

If your Gen 3 EcoDiesel is coming up on the 30,000-mile mark — or you have never opened the glovebox door and looked at the cabin filter — this kit closes every gap in one order: the 68436631AA fuel/water separator, the 68507598AA oil filter assembly, the 68441763AA air filter, and the 68406048AA carbon cabin filter, all matched to the truck.

Get the 2020-2023 Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 4-Filter Kit

Want to compare notes with other owners before you order? A few threads worth reading:

• 2019-2024 6.7L Ram Fuel/Water Separator Filter — Replaces 68436631AA
• 2020-2023 3.0L Ram 1500 EcoDiesel Oil Filter — Replaces 68507598AA
• 2020-2023 3.0L Ram 1500 EcoDiesel Air Filter — Replaces 68441763AA
• Ram Cabin Air Filter — Replaces 68406048AA

Legal Disclaimer

This guide is for general informational and educational purposes only and is not a substitute for your vehicle’s factory service manual or the advice of a qualified diesel technician. Always verify the correct part numbers for your specific model year, VIN, and configuration before purchasing or installing filters. Torque values and fill quantities listed here are for reference; confirm them against your own service information. Installation of any aftermarket or replacement part is performed at your own risk, and the author and retailer assume no liability for damage, injury, or loss arising from the use of this information or the products referenced. Filter change intervals are manufacturer recommendations and should be adjusted for your driving conditions, towing load, and fuel quality. Part numbers, brand names, and trademarks mentioned are the property of their respective owners and are used for identification and compatibility purposes only.