2007-2009 Ram 6.7L Cummins Filter Kit Buyer’s Guide (FS43257 / 5083285AA / 53034051AB / 5013470AE)

The Transmission Filter Nobody Remembers

A guy I know runs a 2008 Ram 3500 as a hotshot hauler — the kind of truck that tows 20,000 pounds every day and never gets a day off. He was religious about oil changes and fuel filters. Every 7,500 the oil, every 15,000 the fuel. He’d tell you his maintenance was perfect.

What he never touched was the transmission filter. The 68RFE shifted fine, so the filter never crossed his mind. At 180,000 miles the shifts started getting soft, then harsh, then the truck threw a transmission code. The shop dropped the pan and found the 5013470AE sump filter had never been changed — it was packed with clutch material and metal fines, and the valve body it was supposed to protect had been eating that debris for years. The repair was a new valve body and a full rebuild, not a $60 filter.

That’s the quiet thing about the 2007-2009 Ram 6.7L: it has a transmission filter that lives inside the pan, out of sight, and almost nobody remembers it exists. This kit exists because the 30,000-mile mark is where four different filters — fuel, oil, air, and transmission — all line up, and most people only ever think about two of them.

Why This Generation Is a Parts-Counter Trap

The 2007-2009 Ram 6.7L is the transition truck, and it has two traps waiting at the parts counter.

The mid-2007 changeover. Dodge dropped the 6.7L into a truck that had been a 5.9L for a decade, and the filter architecture changed with it. Trucks built before January 2007 are 5.9L with a spin-on fuel filter on the engine block. Trucks built after are 6.7L with a canister-style fuel filter housing located in the driver-side engine bay (near the brake master cylinder). Parts-store computers mix these up constantly — a 2007 VIN can point to either engine, and the filters don’t interchange.

The 2007.5-2009 vs 2010-2012 fuel filter split. The early 6.7L uses the FS43257 — a throwaway assembly where the canister and cartridge come as one unit. The 2010-2012 trucks switched to the 68157291AA, a bare cartridge that drops into a reusable housing. They are not interchangeable. A 2009 truck needs the FS43257 assembly; a 2010 truck needs the cartridge. Get them backwards and nothing seals.

The point is that this isn’t a truck where you can walk into a parts store and trust the guy behind the counter, or trust an eBay listing that says “fits 2007-2012.” The year matters, and it matters more here than on almost any other diesel.

What’s in the Kit — Four Filters, Four Jobs

FS43257 / FS43621 Fuel Filter: Protects the Bosch CP3 pump. Mounted on the driver-side engine bay (near the brake master cylinder and battery). Unscrew the cap using a 28mm socket or 1/2" drive ratchet. Pleated media traps particles down to 5 microns while stripping up to 98% of emulsified water before it reaches the injection pump.

5083285AA oil filter (spin-on). The familiar canister Mopar has specced for Cummins engines since the late 1980s — it fits everything from a 1989 5.9L to a 2021 6.7L. Heavy-gauge steel casing, synthetic-blend media, silicone anti-drainback valve. It’s also one of the most-counterfeited diesel filters on the market, which means a $9 no-name from Amazon is usually a thinner canister with fewer pleats and a cardboard end cap. On an emissions-era diesel whose EGR system is deliberately feeding soot into the crankcase, the oil filter is the last line of defense — skip it and abrasive carbon does laps through your bearings. The filter mounts on the passenger side, tucked behind the AC compressor, so it’s a reach-in job from under the truck rather than a top-access one. The drain plug is a 3/8" square-drive recess — a bare ratchet with a 2" extension, no socket — and the sump takes about 12 quarts of 15W-40 (Rotella T4 is the budget staple). When refilling, pour in about 11 to 11.5 quarts first, then top up to the dipstick — dumping the full 12 quarts in one go overshoots the mark unless you’ve let it drain for a very long time. Pre-fill the new filter with roughly a quart and a half, lube the O-ring with oil, and check the old filter to confirm its O-ring came off with it — a stuck O-ring double-seals and leaks. Hand-tighten the canister; don’t over-torque it.

53034051AB air filter (panel). The deep-pleated panel that feeds the turbo. It runs a 30,000-mile interval, which is why it’s the most-forgotten filter of the three powertrain ones — most owners change oil at 7,500 and fuel at 15,000, but leave the air filter until the turbo starts whistling differently. By then the compressor wheel has been eating dust for thousands of miles. The early 6.7L airbox is also less sealed than later revisions, so the filter’s sealing border matters more here, not less.

5013470AE Transmission Filter (Sump): Internal 68RFE panel filter sitting inside the transmission pan. Catches clutch friction material and metal fines before they reach the sensitive valve body.

What You Actually Pay: The Real Comparison

The four-filter 30,000-mile service splits into camps, and they are not the same purchase. Prices verified September 2026.

The math is blunt. Buying OEM separately lands around $240-250 — and that’s four different sellers, four shipping charges, and four chances to get the year wrong. The TruckTok kit is $161.10 for all four in one box, roughly 33% cheaper than the OEM-separate route and, critically, it’s the only listing that puts the fuel, oil, air, and transmission filter together in one order.

The iFJF four-filter set at $125.96 looks like the budget option, but read the fine print: it bundles a CCV (crankcase ventilation) filter instead of a transmission filter. If you’re trying to hit the 30,000-mile transmission service, that kit doesn’t do it.

And Doc’s Diesel’s $78.99 three-filter kit is genuinely cheap — but it’s a house-brand cartridge, not the full FS43257 assembly, and it has no transmission filter. On a 17-year-old truck where the canister housing is exactly the part most likely to be cracked or over-torqued, a bare cartridge does you no good if your housing is the problem.

What to Look For When Buying

Fuel Filter: Protect the CP3 Injection Pump

Located on the driver's side of the engine bay, the fuel filter housing includes a water-in-fuel (WIF) sensor at the bottom. Disconnect the WIF harness, open the drain valve to purge water, and unscrew the cap with a 28mm socket. Replace the rubber O-ring, lube it with clean fuel, and torque the cap.

Priming: Turn the key to RUN without starting, and bump the starter 3 times (each bump runs the in-tank lift pump for 20 seconds to purge air).

Oil Filter: Do Not Buy Counterfeits

Mounting on the passenger side, the 5083285AA takes roughly 12 quarts of 15W-40 oil. Pre-fill the filter 3/4 full with fresh oil and lube the gasket before hand-tightening. Use a 3/8" drive extension directly in the oil pan drain plug and torque to 37 ft-lbs.

Air Filter: Check the Perimeter Seal

Unclip the four metal latches on the passenger-side airbox lid. Ensure the polyurethane perimeter seal compresses firmly against the housing rail to prevent dust bypass into the turbocharger.

Transmission Filter: Servicing the 68RFE

The 5013470AE sump filter lives inside the transmission pan. Remove the 12 small 8mm bolts, gently pop the pan free from its RTV silicone seal, and drain the ATF+4 fluid. Remove the T25 Torx screw securing the old flat filter, pull it straight down off the valve body, install the new filter with a fresh snout seal, clean the pan magnet, apply a fresh bead of RTV silicone, and torque bolts to 7–9 ft-lbs. Refill with ~6.5 quarts of ATF+4.

Five Expensive Mistakes

Mistake 1: Buying the 2010-2012 fuel filter for a 2007-2009 truck

The 68157291AA is a bare cartridge for the 2010-2012 trucks; the 2007.5-2009 trucks use the FS43257 throwaway assembly. They don’t interchange. An eBay listing that says “fits 2007-2012” is wrong for one of those year ranges, and if you buy the cartridge for a truck that needs the assembly, you’ve paid shipping for a part that won’t seal. Match the year, every time.

Mistake 2: Forgetting the transmission filter exists

The 5013470AE lives inside the 68RFE pan, out of sight, so it never gets changed until the transmission starts acting up. By then the valve body has been eating clutch material and metal fines for tens of thousands of miles, and the fix is a rebuild, not a $60 filter. On a towing truck, drop the pan and change the sump filter at the 30,000-mile mark — not at the point where it’s too late.

Mistake 3: Draining the fuel water bowl only when you remember

Water in the FS43257 housing needs to come out at every oil change, not when you happen to think of it. Condensation is constant, and a full water bowl is a standing invitation for algae and corrosion in a system that tolerates neither. The water-separation layer catches the water — but you have to drain it out.

Mistake 4: Using a gasoline-truck oil filter “because it fits”

The 5083285AA crosses to a long list of part numbers, but not every spin-on filter that threads on is built for a diesel. The 6.7L needs media capacity and burst strength to handle soot-loaded oil and towing pressure spikes. A thin-canister economy filter collapses, goes into bypass, and circulates unfiltered oil through your bearings.

Mistake 5: Stretching the fuel filter interval “because it still runs”

The book says every 15,000 miles, and plenty of owners push it to 20,000 or 30,000 because the truck “feels fine.” The CP3 doesn’t complain until it’s too late. A restricted filter drops fuel pressure at the rail, which silently overworks the pump and erodes injector life. The fuel filter is the cheapest insurance you’ll ever buy for a $1,600 pump and a $3,000 injector set.

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s actually in this four-filter kit?

The kit bundles the FS43257 fuel filter assembly, the 5083285AA oil filter, the 53034051AB engine air filter, and the 5013470AE transmission sump filter — the four filtration points on a 2007-2009 6.7L Ram that line up at the 30,000-mile service. It’s the full drivetrain service in one box.

Does this kit fit a 2010-2012 Ram?

No. The fuel filter is the 2007.5-2009 FS43257 throwaway assembly. The 2010-2012 trucks use the 68157291AA bare cartridge in a reusable housing, and they don’t interchange. The oil and air filters are shared across more years, but the fuel filter is year-specific.

What transmission filter does the 68RFE use?

The 68RFE has two filters: the 5013470AE internal sump filter (the panel element inside the pan, included here) and the 5179267AD external spin-on return filter. This kit covers the internal sump filter, which is the one that catches clutch material and metal fines before they reach the valve body.

Why is the transmission filter important?

The 68RFE’s valve body is the hydraulic brain of the transmission, and it’s sensitive to debris. The 5013470AE sump filter catches clutch material and metal fines before they reach the valve body. A clogged filter starves the valve body, which causes soft or harsh shifts and eventually a full transmission failure. On a towing truck, it’s the cheapest insurance in the drivetrain.

How do I change the transmission filter on the 68RFE?

Loosen the 12 small 8mm bolts holding the pan, break the RTV seal free with a rubber mallet (never pry against the pan), and let the fluid drain into a catch pan. Once the pan is down, Remove the T25 Torx screw securing the old flat filter, pull it straight down off the valve body, install the new filter with a fresh snout seal, clean the pan magnet. A wire wheel on a drill strips the old RTV off both sealing surfaces far faster than a razor blade alone. There’s no gasket — you clean both surfaces, run a fresh bead of RTV, and torque the bolts back to 7-9 ft-lb in a crisscross pattern. Then refill roughly 6.4 quarts of ATF+4 through the dipstick tube (a flexible funnel beats a rigid one here) and check the level at operating temperature. It’s messier than a spin-on filter, which is exactly why so many owners put it off.

How do I know if I have the 68RFE transmission?

The quick check is the dipstick: on the 68RFE it’s on the passenger side. To be certain, verify the build sheet with your VIN at a dealer — Note that 2007-2009 Ram 2500/3500 pickup trucks with automatic transmissions ran the 68RFE, while Chassis Cab (4500/5500) models ran the Aisin AS68RC. This kit’s 5013470AE is for the 68RFE only.

What’s the difference between the FS43257 and the FS43258?

The FS43257 is the full throwaway assembly — canister and cartridge together. The FS43258 is the cartridge-only replacement for the same housing. The 2007.5-2009 trucks originally shipped with the FS43257, and on an early truck with unknown history, the full assembly is the safer buy in case the housing is cracked or the water-in-fuel sensor has failed.

What fuel filter does the 2007-2009 Ram 6.7L use?

The FS43257 / FS43621 canister-style fuel/water separator assembly mounted in the driver-side engine bay (near the brake master cylinder). It crosses to 5257769, 68061633AA, and 5183410AA, among others. It filters to 5 microns and separates water to protect the CP3 high-pressure pump.

Does this truck have a CP3 or a CP4 pump?

The 2007-2009 Ram 6.7L runs a Bosch CP3, not the CP4.2 that came later (the CP4.2 didn’t arrive on the Ram until 2019). The CP3 is a more robust pump, but it’s still expensive to replace, and the fuel filter is its only protection.

How do I prime the fuel system after changing the FS43257?

The clean method is the bump-start: turn the key to RUN without starting, then bump the starter three times — each bump runs the lift pump for about 20 seconds and pushes fuel back into the filter housing. After the third bump, turn the key off completely, then crank it normally on the fourth. The alternative is cycling the key to RUN for 20 seconds and back off, four times in a row, waiting about 10 seconds after the first stall before restarting. Either way, expect the first start to be a little rough while the last air works its way out.

How often should I change each filter?

The oil filter goes every 7,500 miles, the fuel filter every 15,000 miles, the air filter every 30,000 miles. The transmission filter is factory-rated at 60,000 miles, but heavy towing and hot-shot hauling wear it out much faster — owners who tow hard drop the pan at 30,000-50,000 instead. The 30,000-mile mark is where the three engine filters line up, and it’s a sensible time to do the transmission filter too.

Why buy the kit instead of the filters separately?

Convenience and cost. Buying the four filters separately from OEM sources lands around $240-250 across four sellers with four shipping charges, and you’re on your own to get the year right. The kit is $161.10 for all four in one box, already matched to the 2007-2009 fitment.

Does the kit include the O-rings and gaskets?

Yes. The fuel and oil filters include the required O-rings for a leak-free seal, and the FS43257 assembly comes with its O-rings ready to install. One thing the transmission filter job does not include is a pan gasket — the 68RFE pan seals with RTV silicone, not a gasket, so you’ll need a fresh tube of RTV to re-seal the pan after dropping it.

Will this fit a 4500 or 5500 chassis cab?

Yes. The 2008-2009 Ram 4500 and 5500 chassis cab trucks with the 6.7L Cummins use the same four filters. The fitment is 2007-2009 for the 2500 and 3500, and 2008-2009 for the 4500 and 5500 chassis cab.

What happens if I skip the air filter?

The air filter feeds the turbo, and on a truck with a less-sealed early airbox, a plugged or leaking filter sends dust into the compressor wheel. It doesn’t fail dramatically — it just slowly erodes the turbo and drops power and fuel economy. The 30,000-mile interval is there for a reason.

Does this kit include the CCV crankcase filter?

No — this is a four-filter kit (fuel, oil, air, and transmission). But the 6.7L Cummins has a fifth filter most people never think about: the CCV crankcase ventilation filter (CV52001 / 68002433AA), tucked under the oil-fill cap. It separates oil mist from crankcase vapor before it’s drawn back into the intake. When the CCV filter clogs, crankcase pressure builds and can push the front and rear crankshaft seals out of their seats — the first sign is an oil leak, and by then a shop visit runs around $500 to fix. There’s no warning light for it, just time and mileage, so it’s worth changing every 40,000-50,000 miles. It’s sold separately, and like the transmission filter, it’s the kind of thing that gets skipped until it leaks.

Get All Four Filters, in One Box

If your 2007-2009 Ram 6.7L is approaching that 30,000-mile mark, or you’ve been meaning to drop the transmission pan “someday,” this kit closes the gap. One order puts the FS43257 fuel filter, 5083285AA oil filter, 53034051AB air filter, and 5013470AE transmission filter in a single box — matched to the year, and ready for one full drivetrain service.

Get the 2007-2009 Ram 6.7L 4-Filter Maintenance Kit

Want to confirm fitment against what other owners are running? A few threads worth reading:

• 2007-2009 6.7L Dodge Ram Fuel Water Separator — Replaces FS43257
• 2007.5-2024 6.7L Dodge Ram Diesel Oil Filter — Replaces 5083285AA
• 2007.5-2024 6.7L Dodge Ram Diesel Air Filter — Replaces 53034051AB
• 2007-2026 6.7L Dodge Ram Transmission Filter — Replaces 5013470AE

Legal Disclaimer

This guide is for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for your vehicle’s factory service manual or the advice of a qualified diesel technician. Always verify the correct part numbers for your specific model year, VIN, and configuration before purchasing or installing filters — the 2007-2009 and 2010-2012 fuel filters are not interchangeable. Installation of any aftermarket or replacement part is performed at your own risk; the author and retailer assume no liability for damage, injury, or loss arising from the use of this information or the products referenced. Filter change intervals are manufacturer recommendations and should be adjusted for your driving conditions, towing load, and fuel quality.