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2017-2025 6.7L Powerstroke 5-Filter Kit Guide (FD4625 / FL2051S / FT187)
Home > News > 2017-2025 6.7L Powerstroke 5-Filter Kit Guide (FD4625 / FL2051S / FT187)

2017-2025 6.7L Powerstroke 5-Filter Kit Guide (FD4625 / FL2051S / FT187)

The “Complete” Kit That Wasn’t

I ordered what the listing called a “complete maintenance kit” for my 2018 F-250 — fuel, oil, air, and cabin filters, all in one box. It felt like I’d finally done the responsible thing in a single order. Then I crawled under the truck with the transmission pan off and realized I was still one filter short.

The 6R140 transmission filter. Nobody’s four-filter bundle includes it, because “complete” usually means “complete for the engine,” and the transmission is a separate system with its own filter and its own fluid. So I closed the pan back up, ordered the transmission filter separately, waited another week, and paid shipping twice.

That’s the whole point of a five-filter kit. A 30,000-to-50,000-mile major service touches five filters, not four — and the fifth is the one the engine-focused bundles always leave out.

Five Filters, Five Jobs — and One People Forget

The 2017-2025 6.7L Powerstroke spans the 6R140 transmission years (2017-2022) and the 10R140 years (2023+), but the powertrain filters are largely shared. A full major service is five filters, each protecting a different system.

FD4625 fuel filter. This is actually two filters in one part number — a frame-rail fuel/water separator and the engine-bay secondary element. It’s the only thing standing between your CP4.2 high-pressure pump and whatever water and sediment has been collecting in the tank. The CP4.2 is the known weak link in this engine: feed it water and it scuffs itself to death, and the repair runs $8,000 to $14,000.

FL2051S oil filter. The spin-on canister that’s been specced for this engine family since 2011. It lives under a 13-quart oil fill and its job is holding carbon soot in suspension out of the bearings and turbo. Note the year split: 2017-2019 calls for FL2051S, and 2020+ officially updated to FL2124S — same thread, different part number.

FA1927 air filter. A cylindrical element with an outer foam pre-filter, specced for 2017-2019. The 2020+ trucks switch to the FA2031, so don’t let a seller tell you one air filter spans all nine years — it doesn’t.

FP92 cabin filter. The one that keeps the defrost working and the diesel smell out of the cab. Cheap, easy, and the second-most-forgotten filter on this truck.

FT187 transmission filter. The fifth filter. It’s the internal screen in the 6R140’s pan, and the only way to change it is to drop the pan and the fluid. Every “four-filter kit” on the market stops before this one — and that’s the gap a five-filter kit closes.

What You Actually Pay: The Real Comparison

We pulled prices across the major channels in September 2026. The thing to count is how many filters you’re actually getting — that’s where the savings claims fall apart.

Channel Filters Price What’s missing
TruckTok 5-Filter Kit Fuel + Oil + Air + Cabin + Transmission $187.20 Nothing — all five
Motorcraft OEM, bought separately All five ~$201 Nothing, but five orders
Doc’s Diesel 4-Filter Combo (site) Fuel + Oil + Air + Cabin $179.00 Transmission filter
Doc’s Diesel 4-Filter (Amazon) Fuel + Oil + Air + Cabin $103.99 Transmission filter
Amazon white-label 3-filter Fuel + Oil + Air $59.99–87.99 Cabin + transmission
eBay ACDelco OEM 3-filter Fuel + Oil + Air ~$192.74 Cabin + transmission

Here’s the detail that matters: the Doc’s “Combo” and every Amazon white-label “kit” pair the fuel, oil, and air filters with at most a cabin filter — and most stop at three. The transmission filter is the piece they all leave on the shelf. Add a Motorcraft FT187 (roughly $60) and MERCON LV fluid to a Doc’s four-filter combo and you’re right back at TruckTok’s price, except now you’ve bought from two places and paid shipping twice.

Prices verified September 2026. Motorcraft single-filter pricing: FD4625 fuel $61.99, FL2051S oil $17.99, FA1927 air $43.99, FP92 cabin ~$17, FT187 transmission $59.84. Doc’s fuel filter runs $29.99, oil filter $13.92, and their four-filter Combo Kit is $179 on their site but $103.99 on Amazon. For reference, a dealership fuel-filter service alone runs $400-700 in labor — the parts are $76-77 for both Motorcraft filters at AutoZone, which is the whole argument for doing it yourself.

What to Look For When Buying

Count the filters, not the headline. A “$68 complete kit” is complete for three filters. Ask what the fourth and fifth slots are before you believe the word “complete.” If it stops at fuel, oil, and air, you’re still buying a cabin filter and a transmission filter separately.

Match the air filter to the year. 2017-2019 is FA1927, 2020+ is FA2031. The foam pre-filter on the FA1927 is the giveaway — if your year-2020 truck shows up with a foam-pre-filter element, it’s the wrong filter.

Match the transmission filter to the transmission. 2017-2022 uses the 6R140 and the FT187/BC3Z-7A098B. 2023+ uses the 10R140 and the FT202. They are not interchangeable, and the 10R140 takes MERCON ULV fluid, not the MERCON LV the 6R140 uses — get the fluid wrong and you’ll hurt the valve body.

Check the micron rating on the fuel filter. Genuine FD4625 is a dual-stage filter with a water-separating layer. The no-name fuel filters on Amazon and eBay often skip the published micron rating entirely, and on a CP4.2 pump that’s the difference between a filter that protects and a filter that’s just a can.

Buy the O-rings with it. The fuel filter ships with fresh O-rings, and reusing or losing one is the #1 cause of a post-service fuel leak.

Installation: The Order That Saves You a Headache

None of these five is hard on its own — the trick is the order, so you’re not fighting your own work.

Fuel Filter Replacement (FD-4625 / FD-4641)

The FD-4625 is a two-piece job: a frame-rail fuel/water separator under the driver’s side, and a secondary element in the engine bay. Do it with a half-tank or less. Start with the lower frame-rail filter: pop the plastic under-truck shield off with its three push-pin clips, then disconnect the water-in-fuel (WIF) sensor connector. Open the yellow quarter-turn valve at the bottom to drain accumulated water into a catch pan. Use a 32mm socket on the bottom hex to unscrew the plastic housing cap. Drop the cap, swap the internal filter element, check the screen for gold metal flakes (a warning sign for CP4.2 pump wear), and replace the housing O-ring (lubricate with clean diesel). Reinstall the cap and torque to 18 ft-lbs. Next, move to the engine-bay secondary filter: release the three quick-connect fuel lines by pressing the colored release tabs (white, red, and green), unclip the old canister from its bracket, snap the new element in place, and reconnect the lines securely.

Oil filter second (FL2051S)

Drain 13 quarts of diesel oil — the oil cap reads “10W-30, or 5W-40 for severe duty,” so Motorcraft 10W-30 is the factory fill and 5W-40 (Rotella T6) is the severe-duty alternative; the drain plug is a 16mm hex (a 5/8" socket fits too — same bolt, just the imperial call-out) that torques to about 22 Nm, and its little O-ring should get a wipe of oil before you reinstall it. The spin-on filter hangs on the passenger side, low enough to reach without lifting the truck, and a folded piece of aluminum foil tucked under it will channel the oil into the pan instead of the frame. Pre-fill the new filter up to the threads — it’ll soak in and need a couple of top-offs, about a quart total — lube the gasket with clean oil, then spin it on until the gasket touches and give it three-quarters to a full turn by hand (no wrench; it seats itself under pressure). Fill to about 12 quarts, start it, let it settle, then top off the last quart — that keeps you from overfilling. Check the old filter came off with its O-ring — a stuck O-ring double-seals and leaks. Reset the oil-life monitor through the steering-wheel menu (Settings → Oil Life Reset, then hold OK) before you call it done.

Air filter third (FA1927)

The cylindrical FA1927 lives in the engine bay airbox, and the factory intake has a vacuum restriction gauge on it — watch the gauge, and when it climbs into the red (or hits the replace mark) the filter is done, no need to pop the lid at every service. When you do change it, lift the old element out and note the foam pre-filter — the new one goes in with the foam facing the incoming air. If you’re on a 2020+ truck, this is the FA2031, not the FA1927.

Cabin filter fourth (FP92)

The FP92 sits behind the glovebox, and a trim tool makes the job a lot easier. Open the glovebox and pull out the rubber insert, then remove the two 7mm screws. Disconnect the damper on the side of the glovebox (it’s slotted — just pull it toward you), push the two stops inward on both sides, and the glovebox drops down. Pry the trim panel away — it’s on there tight, so work a corner loose with a trim tool first. Behind it is a honeycomb-shaped door held by a clip on each side; hook a finger around each clip and pull straight toward you, and the old filter slides right out. Note the airflow arrow on the old element before you remove it — it points downward toward the blower — then slide the new FP92 in with the arrow pointing down and reverse the steps. Five minutes, and the defrost will finally clear the windshield like it should.

Transmission Filter Replacement (FT-187 / FT-202)

This is the fifth filter that every standard kit skips, and it requires dropping the transmission pan. Place a large drain pan underneath, loosen the perimeter pan bolts, and ease one corner down first to drain fluid (~7-8 quarts). Remove the pan, clean the magnet at the bottom, and pull the old sump filter straight down off the valve body. Install the correct new filter with a fresh rubber neck seal: use the FT-187 for 2017–2019 6-speed (6R140) transmissions; use the FT-202 for 2020+ 10-speed (10R140) transmissions. Reinstall the pan with a fresh gasket and torque bolts to 10 ft-lbs. Refill with the exact specified fluid: MERCON LV for the 6R140; MERCON ULV for the 10R140 (do NOT mix these fluids). Check fluid level at operating temperature.

Five Expensive Mistakes

Trusting the word “complete”

A four-filter kit is complete for the engine, not the truck. If you’re doing a 30,000-mile major service and the transmission filter isn’t in the box, you’ve still got another order, another shipping fee, and another week of waiting in front of you.

Running a white-label fuel filter on a CP4.2

The $18 fuel filter saves you $45 today and bets a $10,000 injection pump on it. The CP4.2 is the one part of this engine you don’t gamble with, and the fuel filter is its only line of defense.

Getting the air filter year wrong

FA1927 is 2017-2019, FA2031 is 2020+. They don’t interchange, and the foam pre-filter is the visual cue. Buy the wrong year and the airbox won’t seal, and unfiltered dust grinds the turbo’s compressor wheel.

Inadequate CP4.2 Fuel System Priming

Trying to start the engine without fully purging air forces the CP4.2 high-pressure pump to run dry, causing catastrophic metal-on-metal scuffing. CP4.2 Priming Sequence: Turn the key to RUN (or push Start without touching the brake) for 30 seconds to run the in-tank lift pump. Turn OFF, then repeat 6 to 8 times. You will hear the electric pump purge air back into the fuel tank. Never attempt to crank the engine until this full sequence is completed.

Reusing an old O-ring

The fuel filter’s O-ring seals the housing to the fuel system. If the old one sticks to the mounting surface and you stack the new one on top, it double-seals and leaks. Check the old filter came off with its O-ring before you thread the new one on.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does a five-filter kit include that a four-filter kit doesn’t?

The transmission filter. A four-filter kit covers fuel, oil, air, and cabin. A five-filter kit adds the FT187 transmission filter, which is the piece a 30,000-to-50,000-mile major service actually needs.

Does the fuel filter really protect the CP4.2 pump?

Yes, and it’s the only thing that does. The 2017-2025 6.7L Powerstroke runs the CP4.2 high-pressure pump, which is intolerant of water. The FD4625’s water-separating layer is the single barrier between the tank and a $10,000 pump replacement.

Which air filter do I need for my year?

2017-2019 trucks use the FA1927 (the one with the foam pre-filter). 2020-2025 trucks use the FA2031. They don’t interchange — the airbox changed.

Which transmission filter do I need?

2017-2022 trucks with the 6R140 use the FT187 (BC3Z-7A098B). 2023+ trucks with the 10R140 use the FT202. They’re different transmissions with different fluid — MERCON LV for the 6R140, MERCON ULV for the 10R140.

What’s the difference between FL2051S and FL2124S?

They’re the same oil filter across a part-number update. 2017-2019 calls for FL2051S, and 2020+ officially updated to FL2124S. The threads are identical, so they’re cross-compatible — but match the number to your year.

Why is this kit more than an Amazon white-label bundle?

Because the white-label bundle has three filters and stops at fuel, oil, and air. Add the cabin filter and transmission filter to that $60 bundle and you’re back past $150 — except now you’ve bought from three sellers and none of them published a micron rating.

How often should I change each filter?

Fuel filter every 15,000 miles, oil filter at every oil change (5,000-7,500 miles), air filter every 15,000-20,000 miles, cabin filter every 12,000-15,000 miles or annually, and the transmission filter at 30,000-60,000 miles depending on how hard you work the truck — sooner if you tow heavy, closer to 60,000 if it’s mostly highway.

How often should I drain the water separator?

Once a month, or at least at every oil change (roughly 5,000 miles). The yellow quarter-turn valve at the bottom of the frame-rail filter is the water drain, and water settles to the bottom, so it drains out first — open it for about 10 seconds and you’ll see straight away whether there’s water in the fuel. The WIF sensor works by shorting two pins once water reaches them — by the time the warning light comes on, water has already been sitting in the housing. A quick quarter-turn is cheap insurance for a CP4.2 pump, and the fuel system on these trucks is not the part you want to gamble on.

Why does my 6.7L tick after an oil change?

A brief cold-start tick in the first few hundred miles after an oil change is common on these engines — owners call it the “typewriter tick” — and it’s normal. It’s just the injectors and valvetrain working with fresh oil before everything fully warms and pressurizes. If it keeps ticking past a few minutes of warm idle, or gets louder, that’s worth having a tech look at.

What else should I do at the same oil change?

Three things the owner’s manual ties to the oil-change interval: rotate the tires, top off the DEF tank (the 2020+ Super Duty holds 7.5 gallons and Ford sized it to roughly match the oil-change cycle), and grease the U-joints behind the front wheels. All three are easy to skip because none of them throws a warning light — but they’re cheap insurance on a heavy truck.

Do I need a fuel additive on top of changing the filters?

They do two different jobs. The filters catch debris and water; a fuel additive restores the lubricity that today’s ultra-low-sulfur diesel lost, which is what the CP4.2 pump needs to avoid wear. One owner who tore down his CP4 at 180,000 miles — running an additive at every fill-up from day one — found the cam lobes and rollers completely clean, with no wear scars, while pumps pulled from trucks on plain diesel showed scarring by 100,000. The filters are the wall; the additive is the lube. Run both and the CP4.2 is about as protected as it gets.

What does the FD4625 fuel filter actually catch?

Particles down to 5 microns, plus most of the free water through its separation layer. It’s a dual-stage setup — the frame-rail separator handles the water, and the engine-bay secondary element handles the fine particulates before they reach the pump.

Is the CP4.2 pump really that fragile?

It’s the best-documented weak point on this engine family. The CP4.2’s internal design means water in the fuel scuffs the pump’s internals, and a failed pump sends metal through the entire fuel system — injectors, lines, and rails — turning a pump job into a five-figure fuel-system replacement.

Why buy all five at once instead of as needed?

Because the cabin and transmission filters are the two you’ll never get around to on their own. Bundling them with the fuel and oil filters you have to change anyway is the only reliable way to actually replace all five — and it saves you the second shipping charge.

Get All Five Filters, in One Box

If your 2017-2025 Powerstroke is due for a major service and the transmission filter is still the one that came from the factory, this kit closes the gap. One order puts the FD4625 fuel filter, FL2051S oil filter, the correct air filter for your year, the FP92 cabin filter, and the FT187 transmission filter in a single box — matched to the truck and ready for one long afternoon in the garage.

Get the 2017-2025 6.7L Powerstroke 5-Filter Maintenance Kit

Want to confirm fitment against what other owners are running? A few threads worth reading:

This guide is for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for your vehicle’s factory service manual or the advice of a qualified diesel technician. Always verify the correct part numbers for your specific model year, VIN, and configuration before purchasing or installing filters. Installation of any aftermarket or replacement part is performed at your own risk; the author and retailer assume no liability for damage, injury, or loss arising from the use of this information or the products referenced. Filter change intervals are manufacturer recommendations and should be adjusted for your driving conditions, towing load, and fuel quality.

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