6.7 Cummins EGT Relocation Kit Install (2013+ Ram DIY Guide)

Author’s Note: Written after doing this on my own 2018 Ram 2500 in my driveway with basic hand tools. If I can do it without dropping a wrench into the engine bay, you can too.

I still remember the moment the tuner handed me my delete pipe and said, “You’ll need to move the EGT sensors too.” I looked at the factory sensors buried inside the DPF and thought — how hard could it be?

Turns out, the relocation itself isn’t hard. What’s hard is figuring out which kit works for your year, what thread pitch your sensors are, and whether you need to weld anything. I bought the wrong kit twice before getting it right.

This guide covers exactly what I learned — the hard way — so you get it right the first time.

Why You Even Need an EGT Relocation Kit

When you remove the DPF on a 2013+ 6.7 Cummins, you’re also removing the factory mounting points for your EGT sensors. There are typically 3-4 sensors in the exhaust stream:

• EGT 1 — Pre-turbo (exhaust manifold) — stays put
• EGT 2 — Post-turbo, pre-DPF — needs relocating
• EGT 3 — Inside the DPF — gets deleted with the pipe
• EGT 4 — Post-DPF (some models) — gets deleted

Your ECU still wants to see temperature readings from those sensors. Without them, you’ll get codes like P0544, P2031, or P242B — and your truck might go into limp mode.

The solution: move the sensors you’re keeping (usually EGT 2) to the delete pipe or exhaust manifold, and code out the ones you’re losing with your tune.

Important: This kit is for relocating sensors you’re keeping. If your tune disables EGT monitoring entirely, you don’t need this. But if you’re running a tune that still reads EGT data (most do for safety), you need to relocate.

Before You Start: 2013 vs 2013+ Sensor Threads

This is the #1 mistake people make. 2013 Ram EGT sensors use M14x1.5 threads — not the M12 that generic kits come with.

I learned this after buying a $28 universal kit on Amazon, jacking up the truck, crawling underneath, and realizing the bung wouldn’t thread onto my sensor. Don’t be me.

The TruckTok kit (and a few others like BD Diesel) includes the correct M14x1.5 adapter for 2013+ trucks. The cheap universal ones on eBay? Almost all M12.

Kit Options: What’s on the Market

My take: If you have a 2013+ Ram, the TruckTok kit at $39 (harness only) or $110 (full kit with bung) is the best value. The BD Diesel kit is equally good but costs more for the same thing. The Flo-Pro and Amazon generics use M12 adapters — skip them unless you have a 2007-2012 truck.

What’s in the Kit

If you ordered the TruckTok EGT relocation kit, here’s what you should see:

• EGT probe adapter — 1/8" NPT male to M14x1.5 OEM female (stainless steel)
• Extended wiring harness — high-temp insulated, plug-and-play connectors
• Cable ties and loom — for clean routing
• Optional: Drilled & tapped 1/8" NPT bung — for welding onto your delete pipe

If your delete pipe doesn’t have a pre-threaded bung for EGT sensors, you must order the version with the weld-in bung.

Tools You’ll Need

Step-by-Step Install

Step 1: Disconnect the Battery

Negative terminal off. You’re working near sensors that talk to the ECU — don’t risk a short.

Step 2: Locate the EGT Sensors

Jack up the truck, put it on stands. Crawl under the passenger side. You’ll see your exhaust from the turbo back.

The EGT sensors look like small metal probes with a hex body and a wire pigtail coming off them. There will be:

• One in the exhaust manifold (leave it)
• One just after the turbo (this is usually EGT 2 — the one you’re relocating)
• One or two in/after the DPF (these get deleted)

Step 3: Remove the Sensor(s) You’re Keeping

Spray the sensor base with penetrating oil (PB Blaster or Kroil) and let it sit for 10 minutes. These sensors bake into place after years of heat cycling.

Use the 7/8" wrench on the sensor body — not pliers on the wire. If you damage the sensor, it’s $80-150 to replace.

Once loose, unplug the connector from the factory harness. The connector has a small tab — press it, pull, don’t yank.

Step 4: Install the Bung (If Your Pipe Doesn’t Have One)

Skip this step if your delete pipe came with a pre-threaded 1/8" NPT port.

Otherwise:

1. Mark the spot on your delete pipe where you want the sensor — ideally 4-6 inches after the turbo flange
2. Drill a hole with a step bit
3. Weld the 1/8" NPT bung in place
4. Let it cool completely before threading anything in

Not a welder? Most exhaust shops will weld a bung for $20-40. Well worth it.

Step 5: Thread the Adapter

Apply a small amount of copper anti-seize to the 1/8" NPT threads on the adapter. Screw it into the bung hand-tight, then snug with a wrench. Don’t overtighten — NPT threads seal on taper, not torque.

Step 6: Install the Sensor Into the Adapter

Thread your EGT sensor into the M14x1.5 female side of the adapter. Hand-tight, then 1/4 turn with a wrench. No sealant needed — the sensor has its own crush washer.

Step 7: Connect the Extension Harness

The TruckTok kit uses a plug-and-play harness — no cutting, no splicing. The connectors are keyed and only go one way.

Routing tips:

• Keep the harness at least 3 inches away from the exhaust pipe
• Use zip ties to anchor it along the frame rail
• Wrap any exposed section with heat-resistant loom
• Avoid routing near moving parts (steering shaft, driveshaft)

Step 8: Double-Check Everything

Before dropping the truck:

• All connections clicked in
• Harness secured, no sagging onto the exhaust
• Bung adapter tight
• No tools left in the engine bay

Step 9: Reconnect Battery & Test

Reconnect the negative terminal. Start the truck and let it idle for 5 minutes. If your tuner has a live data display, check that EGT readings look normal — they should climb slowly as the engine warms up.

No CEL? No weird temps? You’re done.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Buying an M12 Kit for a 2013+ Truck

I said it once, I’ll say it again: 2013+ Rams use M14x1.5. If the listing doesn’t specify the thread pitch, message the seller before buying.

2. Skipping the Anti-Seize

Stainless adapter into a steel bung — galvanic corrosion will weld them together without anti-seize. A $3 tube of copper anti-seize saves a world of pain later.

3. Not Protecting the Harness

That extension harness runs through the engine bay near 1,200°F exhaust components. Cheap split loom melts. Use the good stuff — silicone-coated fiberglass loom rated for 500°F+.

4. Overtightening the NPT Adapter

NPT threads seal by taper, not by cranking them down. Overtighten and you’ll crack the bung or strip the threads. Snug + 1/8 turn is plenty.

5. Not Verifying the Tune

Your tune controls which sensors the ECU monitors. If your tuner disabled EGT 2 entirely, you just spent an afternoon relocating a sensor the ECU is ignoring. Confirm with your tuner before you start.

Need more help? Our TruckTok Forum has detailed installation walkthroughs with photos from other 2013+ Ram owners, torque specs, and live Q&A for troubleshooting. Browse EGT install threads →

FAQ

Will this kit work on a 2022+ Ram?

Yes. All 2013-2024 Ram 2500/3500 6.7 Cummins use the same M14x1.5 EGT sensors. The harness connectors are unchanged across the entire generation.

Can I install this without welding?

Only if your delete pipe came with a pre-threaded 1/8" NPT bung. If not, you need the full kit with the weld-in bung — or have an exhaust shop weld it for $20-40.

Do I need to disconnect the batteries?

Yes. You’re unplugging and reconnecting ECU-monitored sensors. A voltage spike can fry a sensor or, worse, the ECU. It takes 30 seconds — just do it.

My tuner says the tune codes out EGT. Do I still need this?

If the tune completely disables EGT monitoring, you don’t need the relocation kit. But you lose your most important engine safety gauge. We recommend keeping at least one EGT sensor active if you tow anything.

How do I know if my kit has the right thread pitch?

If it’s a TruckTok or BD Diesel kit labeled for 2013+, it’s M14x1.5. If it’s a generic kit and the listing doesn’t specify, assume it’s M12 — wrong for 2013+. Message the seller before buying.

Will this cause a check engine light?

Not if installed correctly with a matching tune. If you get a CEL after install, check: (1) connector is fully seated, (2) no wires touching the exhaust, (3) your tune hasn’t disabled the sensor you just relocated.

Can I reuse my factory EGT sensor?

Yes — that’s the whole point. The kit extends your factory sensor’s wiring so you don’t need to buy new sensors. Just handle them gently when removing.

What if my delete pipe already has a bung but it’s the wrong size?

Most delete pipe bungs are 1/8" NPT, which is what the adapter uses. If yours is different (rare), you’ll need to weld the included bung in a new spot instead.

One Last Thing: Legal

This kit is sold for off-road and competition use only. Removing or relocating emissions equipment on a vehicle driven on public roads may violate federal and state laws. Know your local regulations before you turn a wrench.

Got questions about your specific truck? Drop a comment below or reach out to us at service@trucktok.com — we answer install questions personally.

Shop the TruckTok EGT Relocation Kit →